Was ripping some 1x2 trim to 1/2” thickness and using brass block to set fence. I happened to notice it was more snug near top of blade/fence than at saw table.

checked the rip fence and it’s about .5° off of vertical when referenced to saw table and blade.

I haven’t seen a way to adjust that that won’t involve loosening screws that would undo its setting for parallelness with blade.

not a big deal for today’s need, but curious if there is a way to tweak the rip fence for verticality.

thanks

Got in here just to say hi. It has been a while. It good to see a lot of the very first members are still around. Well.... I will talk to you later.

I went to the dump this morning with 10 yards of trash and a treadmill. The treadmill was $35 and the trash was $25/yard for a total of $65. I tried to tell the kid that his math was wrong, but he confidently told me a yard is 3x3 so that was the first 9 of my 10 yards and he added $5 for the 10th. I tried to argue and that it should be $285 total, but he got an A in algebra last year so he must be right. I eventually paid my $65 and went about my business.

Original owner of 3100 and mostly lurking member from the BT3Central days. After a very long hiatus from wood, back to a little bit of making. Tuning things up and stumbled onto Lonnie’s no measure alignment post. Made a “gauge” and tuned things up this morning. Thank you sir!

A couple of years ago, I built a shelving unit for the basement using 2x4s for uprights with 3/4 inch plywood for shelves. The shelves were let into the 4 inch side of the uprights by gang routing slots into the uprights. I did not have a 3/4 inch plywood bit, so I set guides up and used a 1/2 inch bit to cut the plywood thick slots. I am now making some trivets for my Son’s new home and they call for a 1/2 inch bit. The Viper bit I used for the shelves is beyond cleaning and sharpening due the scorched pitch from the 2x4s, so it is off to HD for a new bit. Looks like I will be trying out a Freud bit.

I started off the day by cutting a Tiny Tree on my bandsaw. As usual I had a good dust mask and safety glasses. Before I started the bandsaw I decided to start the filter shaker on the ClearVue filter stack ( the ClearVue dust collector is located in the corner of the shop in its own “soundproof” enclosure, next to the band saw). The filter shaker is a beer coozie size device that attaches to the outside of the 16” x 72” pleated filter stack that vibrates the filters and makes the dust inside them fall to a clean out box attached to the bottom of the filter stack. I usually let the vibrator run for a few minutes. Anyhow, I was happily band sawing out a tiny tree and started noticing that something wasn’t right. The room wasn’t as bright as usual, so I stopped to clean my glasses. That didn’t help much, and in a few minutes everything had a red hue. I stopped the saw and…. Holly crap, it looked like a dust bomb had gone off. After shutting all power off in the shop I found that the 4” cap on the clean out port on the bottom of the ClearVue filter stack had come off and was blowing 1800 cubic feet per minute air through the cyclone and filter stack.
I put the cap back on and turned the dust collector back on with every pick up point open, then turned the 3 room dust collectors on…. And left the shop. I feared that everything in the shop would have a generous coating of powder dust. After running all dust collectors 12 hours I was surprised to only find a very light dusting on horizontal surfaces.

First time I tried using this Freud bit that I've owned for a few years now. The case didn't want to let go of the bit shank... the two black case pieces separated instead. Never had this happen before and I don't remember seeing anything similar on the web.


That collar had a strong grip on the bit shank! I ended up having the bit straddle wood vise jaws so I could gently hammer the black collar part free with a dowel.

mpc

Okay so the router bit vise for working on the bearings on router bits, well... was not something I ever thought I needed, until I did (see my post RE: the Bauer bit set).

Loring kindly sent along one of his surplus router bit vises he made in his shop. This is such a forehead slapping why didn't I think of that kind of basic idea and well executed.

Thank you so much!

Now to see if I can find a replacement bearing, screw is no problem straight forward metric and I have LOTS of those...

Thank you Loring for sending me that router bit vise. The tool I wasn't aware I needed!

As some MAY remember, years ago, the house next to me got rented out to some not so great renters, and I became very security focused after things started walking away...

Well fast forward to this past month and my oldest brother gifted me his now orphaned Wyze Pan Cam V3s. He went with a camera setup that doesn't have a subscription even though the Wyze subscription is relatively inexpenisve...

So between the gifted Wyze Cam Pan v3 that has auto tracking / pan / tilt, I also set up my Wyze Cam V3 that had been previously watching my fence line in the side of the house, now replaced with a Wyze Cam Battery with solar panel (had problems sourcing power for the cams without solar...).

Mind you I live in a decent neighborhood, but that's the problem. Thieves etc... from out of the area tend to stalk neighborhoods like mine since the PD that recognizes them is 2 towns away.

I hate th contribute to a surveillance state, but I can limit the monitoring range to the edge of my property. So since I am the one monitoring IN and ON my property, we should be good to go.

I have a couple of Ring devices left. A Ring Spotlight Cam wired, a Ring Doorbell cam, and a Ring Floodlight cam. I am trying to get off of Ring as the lag between event and notification is huge, like 30 seconds... WIth the Wyze it is almost instantaneous...

I have the Wyze floodlight cam to replace the ring that is basically the motion activated floodlight fixture typically seen in backyards and driveways but with a camera.

So to protect the shop itself I have the following coverage.

1 cam in the rear of the shop pointing toward the roll up doors
1 cam in the front of the shop pointing to the man door from the house.
1 cam outside down the driveway between the roll up doors.
Door contact sensors at each door
85db siren
Security keypad.

It stinks when the behavior of others makes you have to take security steps like this...

I am finally contemplating a small GreenHouse 4 by 8 to cover a galvanized 4 x 8 by 1 ft deep trough. I only want a few tomatoes and green onions, and maybe some leaf lettuce. Initially it will be covered by 1" square mesh wire to keep squirrels out, which is my main reason with having a garden, when I can. I live in town and squirrels can't be shot, and we have LOTS of them! In the summer they eat anything green such as vegetables or fruit. habernaro and cayenne peppered spray does nothing to them. SO, I have lots of 1" square wire to cover the greenhouse cage, bottom to top and roof. Making it squirrel proof.

PROBLEM : Having made doors for storage buildings in the past (and occasionally other doors), I am totally aware of having a FLAT surface to make a door is a necessity, or otherwise it will twist and not close perfect in all directions, allowing enough room for a squirrel or two to get inside. I need to build two 3ft by 7ft doors for one side, and hope that they close flat to prevent squirrels getting in.

QUESTION: How do I, or in what way do I make a flat platform out of a sheet of plywood over a 2x4 base so that it is flat in all directions without a warp in it in any direction. How do I measure this in all directions?
How do I accomplish this?
I know that I can "level" each corner of the platform or side with shims.
CORE QUESTION: with only a 4 ft steel rule, how do I know that the platform is equally flat in all directions? By what method do I check the flatness other than my eyes? My experience in building doors is that they "seem" flat in all directions until I hang them up. Then I discover that they were NOT made as flat as I could tell with my eyes. YOUR TIPS AND IDEAS ARE APPRECIATED.

OH, I know that I can add wood latches in multiple places to keep it closed, but I really want to start with a square and level door frame.

Thanks

Is it true, if you have a table saw and a chair saw, you can make a dining set?

When I bought my Bauer trim router, I had very few 1/4 shank bits aside from my Rockler bits for the signmakers kit... Well I figured Harbor Freight has been upping their game, might as well take a shot at their Router bits...

I ordered the 15pc carbide router bit set, and it sat in the bench until this past weekend.

https://www.harborfreight.com/carbid...ece-59555.html

Decided to finally do something about my camper van bed platform, radiusing the corners and rounding the edges so that they can go in and out of the camper without thrashing everything...

I got less than 1 radius in when the flush trim bit threw the bearing off and bit into my jig...

Long story short. I was right to avoid Harbor Freight bits and blades years ago, and I should have stayed fast to that rule...

On the plus side, the 1/4 roundover bit did exactly what it was supposed to do without any rude surprises...

Simple rip cut on the tablesaw on a 12 inch long workpiece. As soon as I start the cut, the workpiece stars drifting to the right towards the fence. First thought was I was not holding the workpiece firmly. Then comes the forehead slap. I neglected to lock the fence after setting it in position. As Grandma used to say “the hurrier I go, the behinder I Getâ€�.

mop sanders, flap sanders,
So many different kinds
Any advice for small bandsaw/scrollsaw cleanup? small wooden toys and stuff?

How do I remove this piece?

I'm trying to do a full disassembly/cleaning of very dirty BT3000 I recently acquired. I want to clean and lubricate the shims behind this plate but I can't get it off. I took out all the fasteners I can see and now I can wiggle it a tiny bit but can't get it off.

I found a YouTube video where a guy hits the arbor a few times with a mallet and it all comes loose but that is not working for me. (It won't let me share a link here but the video is titled "BT3000 Shim Replacement" and the relevant part starts around 7:16)

What am I missing? Any tips for getting it off?

Also open to any other tips on restoring the machine. Thanks!

Hello, I posted here recently and received some pointers about my saw. I have the Craftsman version and it is my first table saw.

I have some a couple more questions and though I've searched the site am still a little unsure.

1. Regarding using the SMT, should I be concerned about the workpiece to the right side of the blade being unsupported as it cuts through the blade? Could this lead to a poor cut? For this reason, should I plan for the piece I am keeping to be the piece resting after the SMT fence? Or is this a non-issue? I have looked through the stickied jigs and fixtures and am not seeing a modification to the SMT fence that supports the other side of the cut, which leads me to think it is either not a good idea to support that side of the piece or is a non-issue.

2. What modifications are suggested for a beginner owner to this saw to improve its general function and versatility? I know this is largely dependent on the use-case. I bought this saw because I am currently remodeling our entire 1200sq ft home. I also have a 10 inch sliding miter saw but thought the table saw could be helpful. Some projects I am encountering: building built-in bookcases, closet shelving, all baseboard and trim work, and installing a tongue and groove ceiling.

Some jigs and fixtures I have seen in the stickies that I have considered but am unsure if will be helpful for me: a stop block for the SMT fence, an extension table for the saw made of wood (my saw came only with the base around the blade, the SMT, and the router table insert, I'm wondering if making an extension table insert myself to support wider cuts is something I will actually need), a featherboard to be locked to the SMT, and some fixtures to apply to the rip fence though they seem somewhat complex to me as a beginner saw user and am unsure of their function.

Any input about suggested modifications to prioritize would be really helpful to me.

3. I have a Ryobi router, it is a corded 1.5HP fixed base router that I purchased used. I expected the holes to line up as it is a Ryobi, but the router is somewhat newer so I am not surprised that they don't. It does have a plastic scuff plate installed, which I plan to remove to see if the holes on the fixed base will line up with the router table. If they don't, I've read about modifying and drilling new holes, though am unsure how frequently I'd use the router if connected to the saw. Is it common for people to leave a router installed to the table, even when primarily using the table saw? I have a very small garage, which is part of what appealed to me about the saw itself and to some extend to potential for using the router table.


Thank you for any help, I understand I have a lot of questions so even some perspective on a couple of them would be helpful. I'll continue digging through the site as well. Cheers.

Well, with my bad back, I am doing very little lifting or mechanical or wood working. I saw these below over a year ago and with some free time, decided to check on how gullible or smart my small dog is. (My daughter said our dog is the only dog she has seen that understand compound sentences and does them in order). Anyway, I ordered one. After having a little fun with it, I will give it to my daughter with 2 dogs.

Do they work?

https://www.amazon.com/HFLWYWD-Illus...0G58K36ST&th=1

I have watched on topic (Clamping the Rip Fence on the 21829) since it was posted Earlier this week, but since Thursday or Friday morning, it has shown in bold as unread on my browser (Safari on Mac with 26.4.1).

https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...e-on-the-21829

Thanks for your help. This is not an immense problem, but one that is there - for me,

See below:

Saw this on a website
Man carved this from a carpenters pencil

Originally it looked like a yellow version of this