Hand Tools

Subject:
what you said...

David Weaver
...that's all there is to it (the lapping).

Finding a flat surface, run a plane across it, see what happens with the scratches. If they're only on the toe and the heel and the surface is truly flat, well - you've got to rub the plane on something until the scratches cover at least most of the bottom.

Simple as that.

Lapping is a lot about doing what needs to be done and not more (but most of woodworking is like that - nobody gets credit for doing five things if one is necessary and the other four are a waste of time. the art of getting good at something is learning to do the 1 and avoid the others).

I disclosed measurements of this last little exercise for clarity. I think it gets confusing when we start talking about precise measurements. I recall warren mentioning at one point that in some places, four thousandths is nothing. On a rub joint, it prevents a rub joint. It's not a matter of measuring precision so much as it is understanding fit.

I'm learning from testing these planes that I don't mind a flat plane. I actually prefer one that's a little bit concave, though, as it's easier to generate the hollow in a board just as a matter of cleaning up an edge (no stop shavings are needed), and if a board is too sprung, it's faster to take the ends off than the center. I guess laziness has led me to that.

This whole thing is being inferred as difficult or fiddly because it deals with small measurements, but the important point at the outset was that this plane clipped the ends off of a flat board, and I corrected it in 12 minutes. Now, it's great. Whoever ends up with it will notice nothing other than that it works.

© 1998 - 2017 by Ellis Walentine. All rights reserved.
No parts of this web site may be reproduced in any form or by
any means without the written permission of the publisher.

WOODCENTRAL, P.O. BOX 493, SPRINGTOWN, PA 18081