Hand Tools


David Weaver
you couldn't prepare a suitable edge joint with the plane as I received it in anything longer than very short boards. I couldn't prepare an edge joint in a shelf that I now have in my daughter's room with a LN 8 that was concave by about .002". I took the plane to a friend who has a long starrett straight edge as well as a 7 that worked fine (also LN). The 7 was able to make the joint easily, dead flat.

It took several shavings and not super thin ones to get the LN 8 to take a full shaving, and then I would try to defeat the bend by bearing down on it. It didn't work.

The plane that I just received is shorter. It clipped the last inch or two on both ends of the cocobolo blank and I guessed that it would be hollow right away - it would be problematic planing a joint - think about it as having a good even joint end to end and then intentionally taking three or four reasonably heavy smoother shaving off of each end of two boards. The gap ends up being fairly large, and I think the mechanics make it steeper at the end (which is even worse).

My curiosity moving on from that is what do people do when they get a tool that looks great and they can't create a joint. Do they try another one, find it works differently, or do they determine they can't plane a sprung joint or even one that's level.

(I've never had a joint fail, either, including a couple that were a little high on the ends before I started working mostly with hand tools. If they are clamped together tightly and there is a solid glue line (even if it's a couple of thousandths) you'll get away with it. I really don't like seeing a visible glue line, though.

edge joints and mortise and tenon joints are something where people always suppose they'll fail if they aren't perfect, but the only legitimate claim I ever heard about edge joints failing was from someone on another forum who worked in a shop where one of the other workers put panels in a panel clamp, let them dry a few minutes and then got the itch to make the joint more accurate by malleting parts well after they were first clamped. That sounds stupid, but I'd bet more than one beginner has found a glue up that was less than perfect 10 minutes later and then decided to loosen the clamps, tap it into place and do so without freshening the glue.

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