Bringing this back to earth with a stanley 5 and home depot iron. If one knows how to use a stanley, it's just a better rig. I suppose someone could endlessly experiment with a BU plane and try to match a stanley at a given task, but nothing needs to be done to the stanley to work well, and if that much effort is going to be spent making an inferior rig work, then there's plenty of time to learn to use the cap iron.
I can bull a shaving out of the cocobolo with the stanley and no tearout. I'm surprised given the wood density, but it's the quartered side and that side of a board is usually easier to plane, if harder to plane cleanly. Notice that these heavy thick shavings have no holes in them, though they can have disconnects at pores.
A set of 3 thousandth shavings is entirely pleasant (well easier than the block plane despite being much wider) and a better quality surface comes from it than the bevel up orientations.
Even the crease is mostly cleaned up (not doable with any of the bevel up orientations).
And the uniformity of the shine looking at the window is far better.
In order to get the final finish, i set the cap in a range where a shaving bigger than about 3 thousandths wouldn't have been tolerable, but I was looking to see what the best possible final surface would look like.
The whole process is much easier with the cap set because you actually can't get the plane to take a too-deep shaving. It stops you in your tracks immediately and you adjust. That's a nice thing that doesn't occur on bevel up.
The sharpening method for the stanley is washita back work, 1000 grit diamond secondary bevel, 5 micron yellowcake uni 1 bevel side finish (three passes with intentional rounding on the bevel side).