Hand Tools

Subject:
I'll demonstrate thick sometime ..

David Weaver
..in the next few days. I took both in that video, but not all on video.

The reason that I made thin shavings on rosewood, cococobolo and bubinga was because you mentioned this on the blue forum (I'm data mining that thread to see whether or not people are having luck with the methods - I think most people have forgotten that this is really a method for chisels and they're getting stuck in the mud on bevel down planes. It'll work better on BU planes for most than BD, because no touch is needed). At any rate, you posted this:

The problem here is that BU bench planes require a somewhat OCD approach when you work with interlocked grain. Lesser woods do not test this issue. Just as a case in point, I love the streamers that David and Rob Cosman can produce. On the wood - Hard Maple - it just requires a sharp edge. I can replicate this with ease in my workshop. It is fun However, try the same set up on a wood like Jarrah, and it will be patchy, the shavings will struggle to straighten, and you will think that the plane blade is dull. Back to the Maple, and the streamers fly.

So, I posted pictures and a video taking thin shavings in dense woods, quartered, some interlocking grain (and chose khaya quartered as the medium hardwood in a separate post because the ribboning is interlocked and runs opposite directions on the face of the guitar body blank that I used). I haven't planed much maple ,rather since clearance was a potential issue on BD, i planed pine (Which would have clearance issues faster). The reason I planed pine is also because I'm dimensioning it. I posted a copious amount of planing yellow pine and white pine with knots (because I"m using it, not to pick favorable woods - Yellow pine isn't really the most favorable thing for thin shavings because the hardness is differential).

So, I was addressing the first post.

I'll address this, then, too - I made shavings as thick as I could reasonably push out of ribboned bubinga and with the BD plane, the cocobolo stick.

What should be easy to show is that on those sticks:
* 55 degrees and a heavy cut will generate tearout (I haven't tried this with the block plane, so maybe it won't - we'll see)
* 55 degrees buffed (further steepening the angle) on the bevel side only (I can't see a good reason to buff the back when it's easy to keep it crisp with a stone) will not generate tearout
* I have an iron set up at something like 62 degrees flat bevel

I'm supposing that the heavily buffed bevel side will behave like 5-10 degrees more and get through the cut more easily. At lower angles (not relevant here), it'll prevent edge damage due to impact (dirt, etc).

I suspected some folks would have clearance angles on plane irons on common pitch (BD) planes. It's pretty easy to work past once one gets success (but not without trimming the bevel angle way back - a bevel thicker than low 20s isn't needed if the edge is buffed, and can be set to a microbevel if someone hates the buffer and nothing will be lost.

LN is supposedly sending me a BD plane - they informed me that my plane had shipped last week. However, their tracking number shows "pre-shipment". I suspect they've done one of the cheap ebay tricks of preventing you from canceling an order by changing the status to shipped (which informs you that it can no longer be canceled), but haven't shipped it yet. I hope I'm wrong about that. Until then, the stanley 18 will do fine with this testing, one just can only crank so hard on it on a deep shaving (realistically, nobody is taking a hundredth shaving full width off of interlocked jarrah or bubinga with a 62 degree blade, though, so getting half of that is a pretty good demonstration of a heavy shaving for the type. I measured the heaviest cocobolo shavings that I took around 4 thousandths with the #4 and those were plenty heavy, and the center of the heavy shavings on the block plane were somewhere around there.

Messages In This Thread

Creating a mini-ura with buffing wheel?
Re: Creating a mini-ura with buffing wheel?
Re: Creating a mini-ura with buffing wheel?
finger pressure...
Side sharpening
Re: Side sharpening
Re: Side sharpening
Ruler trick
in plane iron testing, I found two options..
Re: in plane iron testing, I found two options..
testing high angles..
side comment about planing in general..
I'll demonstrate thick sometime ..
Re: I'll demonstrate thick sometime ..
Re: I'll demonstrate thick sometime ..
Patience ...
I re-read the articles on COE
High benches and low benches
Re: High benches and low benches
This isn't a snarky response, by the way
Others who do ..
Re: Others who do ..
Re: Others who do ..
Re: Others who do ..
Where I am going....
by the way...
I risk offending a lot of people...
Re: Others who do ..
on the last bit...
One other case for effort...
Something precise.
Re: Initially flat
Rotary tool?
Re: Rotary tool?
Some context
Re: Some context
Re: Some context
A failed attempt *PIC*
Re: A failed attempt
Re: A failed attempt
this is a lie nielsen iron?
Stanley iron
Re: Stanley iron
Re: Stanley iron
Re: Stanley iron
Re: Stanley iron
That pretty much covers it...
Success with applying extra pressure near the edge *PIC*
Directed pressure and progressive work
Re: Success with applying extra pressure near the
Wear bevel *PIC*
Visual difference at the back edge of..
Re: Visual difference at the back edge of..
Sorry, I should've been more precise...
Mini-ura on a new Veritas blade *PIC*
Re: Mini-ura on a new Veritas blade
Re: Mini-ura on a new Veritas blade
Re: Mini-ura on a new Veritas blade
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