Hand Tools

Subject:
Japanese plane with linde buffing bar *PIC*

David Weaver
It took an exceptionally light touch to finish the japanese plane on the yellowcake wheel. Clearance is probably 10-12 degrees at best with a typical setup (iron just over 25 degrees and bed angle on the bottom side at 38). It's much more forgiving to finish just the tip of the edge like this. I haven't looked at this through the scope, but it has the tiniest bright line and nothing more.

The thing that always annoyed me about japanese irons is that as soon as you get yourself a nice amount of clearance, the iron will be chippy (for obvious reasons).

This iron is typical hardness - it's hard, and I'd kind of prefer the lamination thinner and softer as it would have better toughness. We don't have gobs of clear softwoods in abundance to really take advantage of the standard geometry.

AT any rate, diamond hone, washita, linde buff.

I can't tell much of a difference in thinness vs. the stanley, and the obligatory picture at the end shows the shutter speed increased on the phone so that the clarity of the LEDs reflecting on the surface can be seen without just washing out the whole picture.


brand name this or that aside, it's my opinion having had a huge slug of japanese planes that if you can sort through 10 or so used and find one with a very fine carbon steel lamination that's thin with a very supple (easy grinding) wrought backing the thin lamination, that's as close as you can get to japanese plane heavy. This one is a double iron rig that I set up where I removed the wear so that I could see what's going on - and then I lost interest. If I ever do use it regularly, I will hollow grind it some, and if not the soft lamination, part of the fat hard lamination. I guess it takes more skill to get the lamination thin, and you don't see it a whole lot on planes made now. A lot of them are very even with a fat lamination and strike me as being cut from prelaminated material, even if they're not. They just seem like that.

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