Hand Tools

Subject:
Scratches from more compounds; buff vs stick *PIC*

Winston

I decided to look at some more buffing compounds, and see what size scratches they leave. Previously, I used some mystery compounds that came with a strop I ordered from Amazon and rubbed the sticks directly on the blade, because I didn't want to commit a buffing wheel to some unknown compound.

This time, I ordered buffing compounds from McMaster-Carr. (Thanks, Bill, for recommending them -- I'm very impressed that they delivered it in one day with no extra charges!) I got a yellow bar, which is 5 micron calcined alumina, and a green one, which is 1 micron chrome oxide, and I trust that they actually are what they're claim to be. My understanding is that David uses the yellow stuff.

First, I buffed the blade with the white rouge that came in the Ryobi kit, using the soft cotton wheel that was also in the kit.

Next, I used the green 1-micron stuff on a new buffing wheel:

Then I buffed the blade with the white rouge again to get it really smooth, and then I used the yellow 5-micron compound:

Although these compounds leave results that look quite different, they all left an extremely sharp blade. With all of them, I was able to shave hairs without the blade contacting my skin.

Even if they all leave a blade that's equivalently sharp in actual practice, I still like the idea of using the finest one. I just wish I knew where I could get some more of the white rouge -- the stick that I have is tiny and definitely won't last forever.

*****

I also tried rubbing the bars directly on the blade -- I was curious to see if I could do that in the future to get a sense of what size scratches a compound would leave when used on a buffing wheel, without actually committing a buffing wheel to the compound.

Here's the white rouge:

Green 1-micron:

Yellow 5-micron:

So it looks like, for all of the compounds, using the stick directly on the blade leaves somewhat deeper scratches, compared to using them on a wheel. That makes sense.

*****

One other interesting thing... Before doing all of the photos above, I sharpened the blade on a 1000-grit diamond plate and then buffed it with the white rouge. I ended up with a slightly wavy edge, which was even visible to the naked eye. I think I probably had raised a large burr, one big enough that the buffing wheel had trouble removing cleanly. This is what it looked like.

The blade was still extremely sharp, but I didn't want the waviness to show up in the subsequent photos, so I went back and honed it with a Shapton Pro 1000 before doing the tests above.

Messages In This Thread

Sharpening and buffing progression pictures *PIC*
Re: Sharpening and buffing progression pictures
Re: Sharpening and buffing progression pictures
Re: Sharpening and buffing progression pictures
Re: Sharpening and buffing progression pictures
Suzuki Tool 4000
eek...expensive..
judging scratches
Re: Sharpening and buffing progression pictures
Thinking about establishing the Unicorn profile
Amen, Reverend
Re: Amen, Reverend
for testing plane blade durability..
Tormek
Clarification, please
Re: Clarification, please
Re: Clarification, please
Re: Clarification, please
Re: Clarification, please
Preparing a beading blade
Re: Preparing a beading blade
if the tormek had a higher speed leather wheel...
David & Winston
Re: David & Winston
Buffing wheel vs hard felt
Re: Buffing wheel vs hard felt
Re: Buffing wheel vs hard felt
Scratches from various compounds *PIC*
these results will require some study
The white stuff is...
Re: The white stuff is...
various compounds - difficult to judge
Re: various compounds - difficult to judge
Thank you for experimenting
looking forward to...
Further Observations
great work
Interesting..
Re: Interesting..
not sure I agree
Re: not sure I agree
Re: not sure I agree
Re: not sure I agree
I remember reading this...
Re: not sure I agree
Re: not sure I agree
Factory ground *PIC*
Re: Factory ground
Re: Factory ground 1816 *PIC*
Re: Factory ground 1816
Re: Factory ground 1816 *PIC*
Re: Factory ground 1816
blogger grind
Re: blogger grind *PIC*
you're still failing...
after you do your survey, you'll find
Marples catalog...
Some other things to try
I am anxious to try your suggestion *NM*
Re: Some other things to try
Re: Some other things to try
Re: Some other things to try
Scratches from more compounds; buff vs stick *PIC*
Re: Scratches from more compounds; buff vs stick
wait till you try...
great experiments
Re: great experiments *PIC*
Other Compounds
Re: Other Compounds *PIC*
Well! good work
partly my fault for voluminous posts..
Wooden planes
Re: Wooden planes
Re: Wooden planes
Re: Wooden planes
Re: Wooden planes
Re: Wooden planes
Thanks, Jon!!
Re: Wooden planes—Steve Voigt link *LINK*
hardness of iron oxide
Re: hardness of iron oxide
Google monster says
Red stuff
File in useless knowledge
Re: Other Compounds - reinventing the wheel...
will do...
Correction
Calcined alumina *PIC*
sounds like gunpowder...
Profile pictures *PIC*
Capturing the Unicorn Profile
Re: Capturing the Unicorn Profile
but, do I need to?
Outstanding work, Winston! *NM*
Re: Capturing the Unicorn Profile
Angle near the edge *PIC*
Re: Angle near the edge
Re: Angle near the edge
Re: Angle near the edge
This is a difficult thing to do precisely
Thoughts on the data
Re: Thoughts on the data
Scale of Image
Comparative Profile Pictures
I have never looked closely at...
Re: Comparative Profile Pictures
Re: Comparative Profile Pictures
Separate on the IH sorby chisels..
If the UK guys are correct...
© 1998 - 2017 by Ellis Walentine. All rights reserved.
No parts of this web site may be reproduced in any form or by
any means without the written permission of the publisher.

WOODCENTRAL, P.O. BOX 493, SPRINGTOWN, PA 18081