Hand Tools Archive

Re: Flat panel doors with beads...

David Weaver
I recall that from woodnet, and I'm sure it was well practiced as one of the professionals on that board (janus) had mentioned he did the same thing most of his career with complex moulding planes.

It seems like something you can get away with for a while, but a plane that's used a lot, not forever.

I think it's eaiser to keep the bevel side of the plane in shape if one knows what the geometry is supposed to look like vs. the sole of the plane and it's done a little at a time. None of the irons are poorly behaved (that I've come across, at least - most like an india slip and arkansas slip just fine).

One thing that I don't want to do is deal with tearout in beads, though, so the buffing on the non-bevel side of the iron is an attempt to do that only with something very fine and that will not leave the face of the iron completely mutilated.

As far as the applied details (rather than integrally cut in the rail), I've always been a little surprised as that seems like it would be more work. But I build little enough furniture to really have no idea what the standard is or why people do certain things. Using an applied bead to make the door looser and have the outward appearance of the bead miter look tight anyway is the only guess I can come up with. I have a construction tablesaw, but nothing really usable, and could also only guess at the ways people would rout a bead and then cut it off. Thankfully, those things are in my past - fairly sure I can have all of the beads cut in the sticking for four doors in less than 15 minutes and they won't be pinned or have a giant quirk or need to be sanded.

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