Hand Tools Archive

Subject:
Re: 1000g water stones
Response To:
Re: 1000g water stones ()

David Weaver
It'll sharpen HSS. Whether or not it will cut all of the carbides, I don't know.

The loading comment is based on my experience with the muji irons, and I can't remember if it may have been only an issue with the finer ones (5k/15k). The loading or glazing is different than shutting off the cutting action of a natural stone with a really tough steel. What happens is little pinpoints of HSS seem to get stuck in the surface of the stone and instead of the abrasive getting shut off/dulled/stunted, the metal swarf sticks in the surface of the stone.

It's really bizarre. The trick to preventing that stuff is to keep a relatively dry (in concentration, not dry to the touch, but something that's got a high concentration of swarf vs. water) slurry on the surface of the stone.

As far as stiction goes, if you're working the back of something on it, you can as derek says, add something to break the grip on the surface, but you can also do something as simple as add a drop or two of water ahead of where you're going with iron and gradually shuffle the iron in short strokes from one end toward another, then back down. Vs. trying to take 8 inch long strokes in one shot from end to end.

It sounds counterproductive, but the short strokes gradually moving from one end to another actually help keep the stone clear and prevent much liquid suspension between the stone and iron and you get a very fast cutting action that way.

If you ever tried to put thick oil on an oilstone and then try to swipe the flat side of an iron from one end to the next, you'l know what I mean - you just don't get as good of bite, and sometimes none with an oilstone like that.

after I figured out the little shuffle strokes, I don't remember having stiction issues again. There's no reason I'm aware of to not use soap, but I guess I was too lazy to track it down.

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