Hand Tools Archive

Lingerie Chest started and your strategy wanted

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)
Some of you may recall the lingerie chest I began to plan near the end of last year. I had to put the build on hold until recently, and in the last couple of weeks I have managed to get back to it, and actively begun the build.

For a refresher, here is a very basic drawing of the front elevation (I have drawings of the details but nothing that will set your world on fire).

All bar the drawers will be Makore, with the drawers in figured Jarrah. They will bend together really well tonally.

The work I have begun is on the sides.

Shaping a curved board from which four stretchers will be sawn ...

Side view of the curve ...

Four sawn and jointed stretchers...

Stretchers are matched and marked, and with rails (not cut to length yet) ...

The panels for the frame-and-panel sides have been made. These are solid and 1/4" thick, and book matched. The reason for 1/4" is to ensure that the panels bend (inside the curved frame).

Both panels have been completed. Here they are stacked, faces inward ...

The boards for the back of the chest have also been dimensioned, but just mention this as work done and not post pictures at this time.

Now we are getting close to the question I have for you wastrels.

The design for the sides came down to a choice of these four ..

Originally I was going with "A". The lower section mimics the front. However I decided that the combination would end up with the chest looking like a tent on legs! Choices "B" and "C" were discarded as they introduced a different line. So it would be "D" - which looks plain here, except that you are not seeing it in 3D, where the sides curve outwards in the lower section.

The stretchers are 45mm wide and 30mm thick. The design calls for a bevel on the inside face, which will link with the curved drawer fronts ..

This drawing is not to scale, but one I drew up as a reminder for myself what I planned to do ..

Now the area in question is the frame and panel detail. The flat panel needs a transition to the frame. There were two choices: a bead or a cove (pictures above). I have done a number of doors and panels with integrated beads, and that would have been easier. An example is here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/Buildtheframe.html

I decided that a cove would make a better transition, as well as link in with the shape of the drawers and, later, the moulding around the top.

So the question is "how would you go about making this cove - keeping in mind that the frame/stretcher are curved?". Together with this, "how do you make a groove for the panel, and how deep should it be?". No, you cannot use a plough plane - unless you have one that goes around corners.

I do have my own ideas, but I am interested in what others come up with.

The order of all these? Again, the scale is way out.

Your thoughts?

Regards from Perth


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