Hand Tools Archive

Re: Cap iron question-need data

david weaver
I would imagine that it wouldn't do that well on pine, but I haven't worked anything softer than soft maple with it, and the soft maple I planed had extreme figure.

I can generally plane it fine with any plane I have (including single iron planes down to about 38 or 40 degrees) if I am willing to pay attention to sharpness and avoid doing anything other than using the utomst discretion in shaving thickness (I think this is a pain to do, though, if you have a lot of panels to smooth and they have moved a little bit before you've gotten to them.

What I marveled at setting the cap iron that close was that it was impossible to create tearout no matter what I did on a very cheap plane ($11 plus a $3 buck brothers replacement iron) and the finish was a little better than my 55 degree infill smoother (no surprise given the angle, though). Neither produces tearout, but the infill is single iron with a mouth in the neighborhood of office paper thickness, it's predictable that it won't create much shine compared to a bench plane.

Any general thoughts from wood to wood? I wouldn't set it tight for pine, because it's not necessary and there's no reason to add planing resistance. The only cherry I have that benefits that much is curly cherry, but in that case, there is a large benefit from what I've seen so far.

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