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Re: Question.
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Barry Irby
Virgil, Part of this is tiny shop sindrom.
I reswed this poplar from 5/4 stock that has been air drying for at least five years. Sawed it, dressed it, with some work on ti to make it flat, and set it up on end in a spare bedroom to acclimate for a month or two.

Sorted though it picking the best and flattest pieces and then cut them to length and width, being careful to produce square ends, both in thickness and width. Sanded the faces and sprayed shellac on to the ends about 2" to aid in clean up. Would have sprayed the whole surface, but did not have enough.

Glued the dovetails on all surfaces and then on the only known flat surface gently app,lied parallel jaw clamps to sahug up the DT's and produce squeeze out. Removed the clamps after several minutes and cleaned up the squeeze out with water on a paper towel. Inset4ed the drawer box into the chest and wedged it left to right, front and back. Less it dry overnight.

As I removed the wedges in the morning I cleaned up the exterior, easing corners, and polishing the ends of the DT's. All of the others went nicely back into the case. This one offered resistance and was rubbing to one top corner and the diagonal bottom corner. Set it back on the flat surface and it was wampas.

This one is the only one that twisted. It maybe I was not as vigilant and I should have been or that the pieces warped inthe day or two they were in my unheated shop.

I took a shaving or two off each place it was rubbing and it's better. There is still some friction. It may be that I can install the bottom and twist it into submission and if it were a shop drawer, I would. But, this is for my grandson and his Dad is in the military and will be moving fairly frequently. So, I want to give it the best possible shot and lasting al lifetime without issues built in.

I am on the way to the shop to rebuild the drawer.

My other son wants his version built with Baltic Birch plywood boxes and ball bearing runners. I am beginning to understand.

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