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Subject:
Entry hall table for a niece: Part 14

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)
This is the last part of the build - completing of the drawer bottoms and pulls.

A panel was prepared some weeks ago. 1/4" thick Tasmanian Oak. This was made up of two, book matched boards. Blue tape was used to pull the jointed edges together. Clamps are unnecessary for this task ...

Measure off the full width of the drawer bottom from inside the slips ...

Of possible interest is the work holding for the drawer bottom ...

The bench dogs on each side were made from sections of unhardened O1 steel, and filed into teeth.

Another heads-up is the arm for this cutting guard. Some while back, Veritas brought out a gauge with a fine adjuster. They now sell the arms to upgrade existing gauges, which is what I have done here to a wheel gauge I made ...

Here the tongue is marked (about 4mm). This will fit into the groove in the slip.

The thickness of the tongue is marked (3mm).

The tongue is planed ...

The fit is tested with a spare slip ...

The bottom was about 1mm too wide to fit. A LN edge was perfect to re-joint one side ...

Re-establish the tongue with a shoulder plane ...

Slide the bottom in. At this time it is just a dry fit. The front, which remains 1/4" thick to fit to 1/4" groove at the rear of the drawer front, is not yet pushed home. The front groove will hold the one end firmly, allowing movement towards the rear of the drawer.

The drawers require pulls. The aim is to make the pulls "vanish" as much as possible. To do this, the shape is kept simple, and the wood is a section from the drawer fronts. Here it is being planed to 1/4" thickness.

Set up to make the pulls ...

A 10mm wide rebate is planed on both sides. This will be completed on the reverse side as well, to create a tenon 3mm thick.

Four sections are marked off for the pulls (only three are needed) ..

A router is used to create dimples for a finger grip on the underside of the pull (three were needed and were good here; one could be tossed) ...

The outlines are cut out ...

The router is again used, this time to create a 3mm x 50mm mortice in the drawer fronts for the pulls ...

The final section of the build is the drawer back. I decided to use Jarrah to match the rest - one never knows whether the hall table will become a room divider.

The newly-purchased JessEm Clear-Cut TS Stock Guides make a clean, accurate rip that much easier ...

The next post will show the completed hall table.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Messages In This Thread

Entry hall table for a niece: Part 14
Re: Entry hall table for a niece: Part 14
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