I have begun washing some cold pressed linseed oil for the first time. I have found a varnish recipe that I want to try and it called for washed linseed oil.
It is quite fascinating that the oil contains so much muck and need to get rid of it. Tad Spurgeon apparently has few methods using salt, salt with pool sand etc. Another guy apparently uses phylium husk. I did not want to pay for any of extra material.

First few washes were done with salted water like the author called out but I found...

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I'm about to try Natura Onecoat two part finish for the first time and have some questions about the life of the unused, unmixed components that will be left over so hoping someone can advise me.

The internet tells me that the oil component has a tendency to go gloopy and skin when left in the tin in which it is supplied, and it seems that a solution to this may be the Stoploss bag system to eliminate air. Has anyone tried using Stoploss with Natura onecoat?
Secondly there is the unused...

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Got a 2in thick slab of spalted beech, which I intend to turn into a coffee table. It's been outside for a while and just come indoors. What's the best way to treat this to retain the spalted pattern.

Hey, I have finally scaled up from small pencil case sized boxes to my first piece of furniture!

I am now a little bit overwhelmed with all the available options for finishing. I know this is quite a subject with lots of opinions and variables, so here are some details...

The table is glued up on all unexposed endgrain using outdoor PVA type wood glue. It is then pocket hole screwed on all joints too.
The legs are made by gluing up 3 24mm thick lengths (Yes, I am prepared for another trip...

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I have two porch doors that I will be replacing with new pine doors. I am thinking about using pine tar, blo or tung oil mixtures to waterproof and add rot resistance.

Some of the mixtures I have seen use the blo-tar- gum turpentine but some use regular turpentine and some use limonene as the solvent. I am not sure if gum turpentine or limonene would be overkill.

Has anybody experience with these solvents or any recipes which held up to the UV radiation and water?

Beeswax adds a nice...

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I don't use an airbrush enough to become proficient with it, and my main problem is paint viscosity.
With my conventional spray equipment it's easy. I buy the paint, and on the can it tells me the recommended spray PSI and to thin the product to so many drops in a given time through a number specified Ford cup.
The recommendation for an airbrush, which you find endlessly repeated on the internet, is to thin the paint or varnish to the consistency of 'skim milk'. So how the heck to you do...

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I've been using what used to be 'Osmo Oil' but is now poly 2032 or something similar. I've always had fairly decent results with it, simply wiping it on with a sponge thinly and leaving it be (...floorboards etc).

But...recently I've found that I am getting very streaky finishes on birch ply panels for a camper van rood. Some areas are left more matt, and there are lots of wipe or sponge marks left in places where even the slightest amount of oil is left on.

I'm sanding to my usual 240...

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I cut out a guitar shape from a piece of Ash and it has a black mark in it. Im not sure if its a part of the wood or an external stain?
I would like to remove it if possible, I can not really sand down anymore, it was on the wood before I planed it to size, I thought it would go after planing 5mm off the face. But its still there?

I did think about bleaching the wood to see if that gets rid of it


Any ideas? Thanks

ive been asked to do this job and wondered if anybody had any recomendations for a product to help remove the old finish and any ideas for something to refinish it with .
the client would like to keep it as natural looking as possible .
the guy thats asked me to do the job is suggesting oatrol netrol to restore the oak . but I take it ill have to sand it back in the black areas first ?
thanks anyone in advance

Morning all, Our Men's Shed is preparing to make a live edge two seat bench. We have two huge planks each with bark still attached. What is the best way to keep the bark attached to the plank? Spray it with something? Peel it off (gently) and glue? Any advice is appreciated.

Hi Folks.

I'm building a pine table and I'd appreciate some advice on what good quality filler, stain & finish to use. Ideally something that doesn't require remortgaging the house in order to buy it.

Filler: either something that'll take the stain well, or something of solid dark colour.
Stain: Looks like my old time faviorite Sovereign AQ line got axed several years ago, so any advice is appreciated. Something along the lines of a vibrant gold colour.
Finish: Any recommendations for easy...

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They're cute, but a bl**dy nuisance from time to time, and this is one of them!

Anyway, I can glue this back together but obviously want to get the best finish possible. Hopefully the pictures show the damage and that the bowl is coated in some sort of lacquer/varnish.

Can anyone give me some advice on how to blend the finish in, what to use etc please? And perhaps how to pull the crack together. Oh, and I do not possess a lathe.

Many thanks

Hey all hope you're having a good bank holiday,

I'm looking for some advice on giving some extra protection to both painted and mixed painted & raw wood surfaces. For nicer purely wood pieces I have been using Osmo PolyX which has been working amazingly but when it comes to anything that has painted elements where I can't really use Osmo I haven't had much luck with very mixed results.

Currently I've been using Fortress Satin Varnish applied with a Prodec Ice Fusion mini roller and Osmo...

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I use Osmo for doors, and basically anything I need to add some protection to after sanding down.

If you have used Osmo, there is a pretty little applicator set for about £28 on Amazon for a roller, brush and roller tray. Being a tight git, I went for another option.

Magic Erasers. Which cost me about £3 for 50 from Ali Express. They do tear if caught but a lot cheaper and I dont have to think about cleaning them.

Good for Application and the obligatory wiped down thereafter. A take...

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I'll be making birch ply drawer and door fronts for a kitchen I'll be fitting.

I want to apply colour finish for the fronts and the laminate edges I want to keep exposed and sealed.

I've previously done a 25mm plywood worktop with laminate and sealed the edges with Osmo and it worked and looked great.

This time I was thinking I might laminate with fronts with fenix and Osmo the edges, but now I'm thinking a painted finish for the fronts could be an option.

Any recommendations for...

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Hi everyone,

I’m currently renovating a late 19th century house in France, and the staircase finish needs removing, I started sanding it but it just clogs up the sandpaper and creates friction heat really fast, it’s all cracked in a giraffe pattern so I was wondering if someone could help identify what it is and give me the best method for removing it.

Many thanks.

I've recently laid a laminated oak floor throughout the downstairs of my house. It's laid fairly well and wasn't too difficult.I used about 2L of D3 Evo-Stick as this is the type that has to be glued together. We decided not to put oak into the kitchen as we were advised the oiled finish will show where any water lands upon it. Well with the best intentions water is going to be slashed while washing up etc. But we cannot find anything else to use: they are either too grey; wood vinyl...

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Hi all, I've took advice in another thread and started restoring a vintage hand saw. I've replaced a cracked section and broken horn with cherry as this looks like the closest match on the cut original wood.

I'm wanting the end result to look similar to the Lie-Nielsen cherry handles and was thinking of applying a slightly pigmented beeswax over sanding sealer. Would this give the desired look and 'blend' in the repair?

Some products I've found: Liberon Beeswax Paste - Antique...

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Hi all, a neighbour has asked if I can repair a mark on a table that has been French polished. I have attached a photo. I have done some French polishing before, so not totally Green, but not sure how to approach this mark. Any help would be appreciated.

I've recently finished 2 oak desks in polyx and I've noticed the slightest thing will accidentally remove the finish, such as resting my arms on it while typing, even a damp kitchen towel will remove it.

I'm trying to figure out the cause because I have pine floors that are also finished in polyx that are completely bulletproof and have been for 8 years.

The only difference between the two is:

floors are pine and 120grit sanded, finished pre pandemic

desks are oak and 240grit sanded...

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