The chipbreaker for my Clifton 5 1/2 has a slight belly in the middle, making the smaller part of it wobble. If I tighten the lever cap a good bit, it seems to mate closely with the blade and can take a good shaving, but I feel like the extra pressure is not good for the plane. Is this by design, or do I need to fix/replace the chipbreaker?

Hi All.

I recently bought a new leather (suede I assume?) chisel roll like that in the picture.

I'm not keen on the colour (I know it'll get dirty before long and probably won't matter), but I'd prefer a darker brown colour.

Does anyone know if it would be OK/a good idea to put dubbin on it? I thought it might also protect/waterproof it too, as well as darken it?

Google seems to think it's a bad idea to put dubbin on a leather chisel roll.

What do you think?

Is there a resource that lists all the beam drills by make and model? Further more, is there a type study of the renowned millers falls no 145 boring machine? I have seen 5 different variations at least of the no 145 and heard there was a no146 offered that was an identical machine aside from the base being metal rather than wood.

If not, this may be my inspiration to obtain one of every example and get them all into shape and do a video comparison of them all in use. That may be a tall order since even the worst shape ones seem to often have a STEEP price tag.

I was recently gifted a Stanley no. 5 Bailey hand plane by my uncle. I would like to make it look nice and functional again. Does anyone have any tips to remove the rust? Or some words of warning would be helpful. I believe it still has the original wooden handles, I'd I like to keep them, but the knob does have a crack. After I get the rust removed, I'd like to tackle the paint or what I believe might be japanning. The areas that were covered by the handles are glossy like traditional japanning, im not sure if the rest is just painted over because its peeling. I have used "emerald dustbane degreaser" to clean the parts so far. Now I have them in a bath of vinegar. I heard if you dont use baking soda after the vinegar it might be a problem. Do I just powder coat them? or maybe put each piece in a bag filled with baking soda?

Edit: Thank you for the tips. I had some parts in vinegar for roughly 20 mins but I took them out. I know evapro rust exists but its discontinued at my local canadian tire and im also quite broke. I will put this to the side until I get employed and can afford to purchase something like evapro rust. (I was trying to use this tool to make a few items to sell like a birdhouse or something simple like a photo box with the scrap wood I have for the time being) Thanks again for the help!

Found a number 5 for 14.50 at my local restore. The timing is actually really good for me because I'm currently prototyping replacement blades so it's nice having more planes to test the blades in . I don't necessarily need a number 5 as a user but knowing myself I'll probably get her nice and pretty and end up using it anyways lol.

Hopefully this is the right place I’ve been a wood worker for years but recently got into older tools and fixing them up Got these on marketplace I know they are ratty but wanted the challenge and got a lot of old rusty tools for a decent price are these hopeless and any tips would be very appreciated

Recently added liquid nitrogen cryogenic treatment to my heat-treat process and have been pleased with the results so far. Should have some hand plane blades finished later this week.

These are for sale on a marketplace near me. priced at $150 for all. I am mostly a power tool woodworker but have been looking at an opportunity to try hand planing.

The seller indicates a preference to sell together, but would possibly sell them piecemeal.

Couple questions:

Are these quality planes?

Is it a good price?

Are some of these duplicates of each other ?(kind of looks like the middle three might all be the same size?)

thanks for sharing your expertise!

UPDATE: Asked the seller about the price for just the longest jointing plane and one of the small ones and he came back firm at $100. Decided to pass based on feedback here. Thanks everyone!

I have this chest I was using for scrap wood however I am going to convert into a tool chest.
I have roughly laid out my planes but want some pointers / suggestions on how to do it.

I have been watching lots of ATC & Dutch tool chest videos to see how other ones are done.
I am think of adding sliding tills towards the top for chisels/ accessories.
Adding a section to add a few saws.
I would also like to add 1 brace & 1 egg beater drill but these are not ‘musts’.

It’s a heavy stationary chest with a no 5 vice fixed on it and I use it with a bench hook for planing as well.