I had some pallets from work I decided to turn into a mud kitchen for my kiddos. Equipped with a functional sink (hot and cold are “t-d” into a quick connect fitting for the garden hose. I wasn’t sure where to start but ended up thinking it all up as I was building it.

I couldn’t decide if I wanted to paint it or just clear coat it. I ended up torching the whole thing, sanding, then used a high quality UV resistant spar urethane. 4 thick coats since it’ll spend a lot of time being soaked and in the sun. I’m very happy with how the wood grain POPPED after torching.

It came out pretty cool. The kids love it! This was my first wood working project.

Edit: I forgot to mention that I left the “backsplash” portion open for hooks to be able to hang pots, pans, utensils…etc.

https://preview.redd.it/5i92bgicg5pg1.jpg?width=1280&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=be97dd78945240951d4296261150b4e0d0e06d74

I recently had the privilege of building a box for my father's ashes. I decided to use the same combination of walnut and wenge as my previous project, but I also wanted to try some new techniques. In particular I wanted to experiment with sterling silver wire inlay, and I found a few YouTube videos (Hamler, Newberry) that encouraged me.

I was really surprised how easy it was, and how well it turned out. Granted this was on a flat surface (not a curved knife handle) and only straight lines, but I'm encouraged to try more. As described in the videos, I made my own "stabbing" tool from a #11 xActo knife blade.

https://preview.redd.it/8kwjrvymk5pg1.jpg?width=1280&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3af21fce86a1b95092d0d84a181312007da4d538

I was surprised to learn that the wire doesn't need to be glued down; you just wet the wood to expand the fibers before sanding the wire flush. The "half-hard", rectangular wire I used was 0.013" wide by 0.055" deep, sourced from T.B. Hagstoz. It was surprisingly easy to create crisp 90 degree bends to match the inscribed grooves with a small pair of bent-tip needle nose pliers.

https://preview.redd.it/1g2vqizym5pg1.jpg?width=1280&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e7db5ebe0e8fe52f56ca51697961e0b25a86d289

The finish is Natura Onecoat with N3 Nano ceramic coating (not yet applied in the photos).

https://preview.redd.it/g56je250r5pg1.jpg?width=1280&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=142812917f93ba296d0524c685071295e00e790e

I'm not sure what to call the tongue-and-groove corner joints. I cut the grooves in the wenge with a Veritas Combination Plane. This amazing tool has SO many adjustment knobs, but after a couple of years with it I'm now getting good results.

https://preview.redd.it/34azfwt2p5pg1.jpg?width=1280&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e029510d782f7af6c7b23360ba11b390c92ce107

https://preview.redd.it/joak6no7p5pg1.jpg?width=1280&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=75ab898d18a0c01a246411ac6ccd682267bd99d6

To create the tongues on the walnut sides I used the Veritas Skew Rabbet Plane. While it has relatively few adjustments, I'm still struggling to get good results with it. On cross-grain cuts, I keep tearing out the top edge of the rabbet shoulder. I think the problem is with keeping the tool square, given that the fence is registering on a fairly thin board. More practice required, or maybe a special jig...

As with my last project, I created a removable bottom with a piece of 1/4" plywood wrapped in suede. This has worked well once I figured out how to cut the corners of the suede so it doesn't overlap when wrapped around the back. Spray contact adhesive to fasten down.

https://preview.redd.it/lm0pn2u4t5pg1.jpg?width=1169&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f1746a6bc339823ab9ea4ae9661ae42f8ab5006b

Overall this was a rewarding project with many lessons learned.

https://preview.redd.it/5i92bgicg5pg1.jpg?width=1280&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=be97dd78945240951d4296261150b4e0d0e06d74

I recently had the privilege of building a box for my father's ashes. I decided to use the same combination of walnut and wenge as my previous project, but I also wanted to try some new techniques. In particular I wanted to experiment with sterling silver wire inlay, and I found a few YouTube videos (Hamler, Newberry) that encouraged me.

I was really surprised how easy it was, and how well it turned out. Granted this was on a flat surface (not a curved knife handle) and only straight lines, but I'm encouraged to try more. As described in the videos, I made my own "stabbing" tool from a #11 xActo knife blade.

https://preview.redd.it/8kwjrvymk5pg1.jpg?width=1280&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3af21fce86a1b95092d0d84a181312007da4d538

I was surprised to learn that the wire doesn't need to be glued down; you just wet the wood to expand the fibers before sanding the wire flush. The "half-hard", rectangular wire I used was 0.013" wide by 0.055" deep, sourced from T.B. Hagstoz. It was surprisingly easy to create crisp 90 degree bends to match the inscribed grooves with a small pair of bent-tip needle nose pliers.

https://preview.redd.it/1g2vqizym5pg1.jpg?width=1280&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e7db5ebe0e8fe52f56ca51697961e0b25a86d289

The finish is Natura Onecoat with N3 Nano ceramic coating (not yet applied in the photos).

https://preview.redd.it/g56je250r5pg1.jpg?width=1280&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=142812917f93ba296d0524c685071295e00e790e

I'm not sure what to call the tongue-and-groove corner joints. I cut the grooves in the wenge with a Veritas Combination Plane. This amazing tool has SO many adjustment knobs, but after a couple of years with it I'm now getting good results.

https://preview.redd.it/34azfwt2p5pg1.jpg?width=1280&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e029510d782f7af6c7b23360ba11b390c92ce107

https://preview.redd.it/joak6no7p5pg1.jpg?width=1280&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=75ab898d18a0c01a246411ac6ccd682267bd99d6

To create the tongues on the walnut sides I used the Veritas Skew Rabbet Plane. While it has relatively few adjustments, I'm still struggling to get good results with it. On cross-grain cuts, I keep tearing out the top edge of the rabbet shoulder. I think the problem is with keeping the tool square, given that the fence is registering on a fairly thin board. More practice required, or maybe a special jig...

As with my last project, I created a removable bottom with a piece of 1/4" plywood wrapped in suede. This has worked well once I figured out how to cut the corners of the suede so it doesn't overlap when wrapped around the back. Spray contact adhesive to fasten down.

https://preview.redd.it/lm0pn2u4t5pg1.jpg?width=1169&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f1746a6bc339823ab9ea4ae9661ae42f8ab5006b

Overall this was a rewarding project with many lessons learned.

My recent projects have required numerous rabbets and dadoes of various depths and widths, sometime as narrow as 1/8". In the past I've fine-tuned the width with a chisel, but the results were rarely very good. Then I happened to stumble across the Veritas Side Rabbet Plane and thought I'd give it a try. It's turned out to be a rock star! It's fun to use and works very well in taking a uniform shaving off the side wall of a groove. It's reversible and has an adjustable depth stop to prevent gouging the bottom of the groove. Contrary to the website description, it can handle 1/8" grooves, but only to a depth of ~3/8" instead of the full 1/2" spec. And the removable toe lets you trim all the way to the end of a stopped groove.

Anyway, I just wanted to give a shout-out to this unsung hero. Anyone know if this is based on a classic design, or is something new?

My recent projects have required numerous rabbets and dadoes of various depths and widths, sometime as narrow as 1/8". In the past I've fine-tuned the width with a chisel, but the results were rarely very good. Then I happened to stumble across the Veritas Side Rabbet Plane and thought I'd give it a try. It's turned out to be a rock star! It's fun to use and works very well in taking a uniform shaving off the side wall of a groove. It's reversible and has an adjustable depth stop to prevent gouging the bottom of the groove. Contrary to the website description, it can handle 1/8" grooves, but only to a depth of ~3/8" instead of the full 1/2" spec. And the removable toe lets you trim all the way to the end of a stopped groove.

Anyway, I just wanted to give a shout-out to this unsung hero. Anyone know if this is based on a classic design, or is something new?