I am working on getting my shop up and running. I do mostly Greenwood working and historic trades. I love it when I can combine these. I needed a froe so I spent some time at my forge. What are some tools you have made?

Hello all,
I am moving out of the country and am selling the last of my tools. These are 2 great working tools. Both are sharp and in excellent shape. $150 for the pair plus shipping to wherever you are. DM me here or over on instagram #virginiacityhouse if your interested.
Thanks
t.

The chipbreaker for my Clifton 5 1/2 has a slight belly in the middle, making the smaller part of it wobble. If I tighten the lever cap a good bit, it seems to mate closely with the blade and can take a good shaving, but I feel like the extra pressure is not good for the plane. Is this by design, or do I need to fix/replace the chipbreaker?

Hi All.

I recently bought a new leather (suede I assume?) chisel roll like that in the picture.

I'm not keen on the colour (I know it'll get dirty before long and probably won't matter), but I'd prefer a darker brown colour.

Does anyone know if it would be OK/a good idea to put dubbin on it? I thought it might also protect/waterproof it too, as well as darken it?

Google seems to think it's a bad idea to put dubbin on a leather chisel roll.

What do you think?

Is there a resource that lists all the beam drills by make and model? Further more, is there a type study of the renowned millers falls no 145 boring machine? I have seen 5 different variations at least of the no 145 and heard there was a no146 offered that was an identical machine aside from the base being metal rather than wood.

If not, this may be my inspiration to obtain one of every example and get them all into shape and do a video comparison of them all in use. That may be a tall order since even the worst shape ones seem to often have a STEEP price tag.

I was recently gifted a Stanley no. 5 Bailey hand plane by my uncle. I would like to make it look nice and functional again. Does anyone have any tips to remove the rust? Or some words of warning would be helpful. I believe it still has the original wooden handles, I'd I like to keep them, but the knob does have a crack. After I get the rust removed, I'd like to tackle the paint or what I believe might be japanning. The areas that were covered by the handles are glossy like traditional japanning, im not sure if the rest is just painted over because its peeling. I have used "emerald dustbane degreaser" to clean the parts so far. Now I have them in a bath of vinegar. I heard if you dont use baking soda after the vinegar it might be a problem. Do I just powder coat them? or maybe put each piece in a bag filled with baking soda?

Edit: Thank you for the tips. I had some parts in vinegar for roughly 20 mins but I took them out. I know evapro rust exists but its discontinued at my local canadian tire and im also quite broke. I will put this to the side until I get employed and can afford to purchase something like evapro rust. (I was trying to use this tool to make a few items to sell like a birdhouse or something simple like a photo box with the scrap wood I have for the time being) Thanks again for the help!

Found a number 5 for 14.50 at my local restore. The timing is actually really good for me because I'm currently prototyping replacement blades so it's nice having more planes to test the blades in . I don't necessarily need a number 5 as a user but knowing myself I'll probably get her nice and pretty and end up using it anyways lol.

Hopefully this is the right place I’ve been a wood worker for years but recently got into older tools and fixing them up Got these on marketplace I know they are ratty but wanted the challenge and got a lot of old rusty tools for a decent price are these hopeless and any tips would be very appreciated