What a wonderful thing. He could ask for much more. He could even sign something and get much more for these items. But he wants them to go to a good home, even better, to a beginning hand tool woodworker. From a hundred or so bucks to a few hundred, some great tools and benches to be had.

https://paulsellers.com/2026/05/four-workbenches-and-a-set-of-hand-tools-looking-for-new-homes/

To drop off a Fray Brace...and this combo square..

Tis A Stanley product....either a 4 Square Brand or a Defiance Brand...

Also to pick up a tub of tools..

There were also 2 block planes in there..

Top one is a Stanley No. 18..

The other might look like the No. 18, but...

No Handi-grip...has Damaged stamped into the side..

Because of the Casting Voids..so..

No names, no eccentric lever, nothing around in back...otherwise, just the same plane..so far, all the Nickel Plate has been restored, like these 2

Top: Millers Falls No.188A, bottom Goodell Pratt & Co. No. 7

next..

This square appears to help lay out for the mortise for a door's lock...and mark the set back for the handle.. hole in handle lays out the mortise...holes in blade set the set back needed..heel of the handle is NOT square...it is however a 1:8 Dovetail angle..

Next

Cleaned up..A small half& half Divider by Starrett

Next

Ruler for this combo square was nickel plated

Brace is a Millers Falls No. 731 Brace , 12" sweep...last ones were made up to 1957...doesn't look a day over New?

Compare to the Stanley No. 932, 8" Sweep..

Friend of mine down in Clayton, OH. does a lot of Nickel Plating in his garage...and does a few of my tools...

Thanks for looking in!

I have her in my shop today. And I'm very happy with another ECE hand plane. Thank you Lee Valley, easy check out, fast free shipping, and arrived without a scratch.

I'll let ya all know how she feels after first use. I'm sure it'll be just as dandy as my ECE Dopplehobel 😄

A few years ago, I built both a tool chest ( looks like a Hope Chest) and a 5 drawer Tool chest with a flat top to cover a top compartment

Still have to clear away the clutter on top of the Big Chest...I could get to all 5 drawers but...to lift that lid...I needed to remove a bunch of ..."Stuff"

Wood box holds a Stanley No. 39, 3/8" Dado plane..Cardboard has a bunch of small tools and bits...a speed square, and a 100' Cloth tape measure...and the rest of this pile was "piled" up on top.

The Yankees were calling this Rock Maple Mitre Box home..Bevel square and try square are "extras'

All kinds of "Treasures" were lurking under that lid..

That Brace Drill?

Is a Stanley No. 923, 8" sweep...which was headed to the shop..

That round item..is a metal 50' tape measure...Wood handle is a Hacksaw. Hammer is a Cobbler's Hammer.

Closed the lid..and it was soon covered up, again..

Those 4 files?

Were sent to the shop, the rust was removed..the one without a handle is a Heller...Rat tail file is a spiral cut. These were just rusty, but still quite sharp...

Stay tuned..

Can anyone identify this plane? What kind and who made it?

Makes you wonder if they're not going to carry the brand any more?

https://www.bobvila.com/reviews/lowes-early-memorial-day-craftsman-may-2026/

And trying NOT to raise any saw dust..

Cleaned up old Wentworth No. 1

Made sure there was clearance to allow the locking handle to open all the way...1st customer?

Diamond Edge No. 0140....meant I needed to install a handle onto a XX Slim 6" file...and about 10 minutes after that..

All sharpened. Test drive? Was done after the other 2 saws were done, but..

Once it got started, I made about 10 strokes...seems to cut just fine..

NEXT!

Disston No. 4, 14" Backsaw...took almost as much time as the first saw did..

Filed this one Rip...as that is what I use it for when sawing dovetails...

Same with the Stanley No. 68 Gent's saw...just a LOT more teeth...test drove both..

Kerf to the left is from the No. 4 Backsaw...both were given a 10 stroke test....Pine plank was not clamped to anything..other than my foot down at the bottom.. and my finger & thumb beside the saw...

I think that will do, for now..

Rust Hunting Season, that is..

$10 box of tools, with a Nest of Saws, and a Keyhole saw...

$20 Craftsman 3 drawer tool chest, with a lot of tools inside..

(hand held camera photos did not come out very good..)

1st weekend of each month at the Fairgrounds in Urbana, OH...has a huge Flea Market...$2 to enter, then you walk ...a LOT...I just follow me nose...this pile was from 3 different vendors...Total cost was $17, counting admission

$10 box had a pair of Cordless Sanders...

A few chisels...PowrKraft had it's OEM "wrapper" with instructions for use..

"Handy Andy" items at least the chisel says so...

A Sharpening Stone with 2 grits

100 and 180 grit...

Dropped off a few items down in Clayton, OH to be Nickel Plated..on the way home?

A Craftsman Sliding T Bevel square...$1

and...

Another stop had a $5 Millers Falls No. 85 "Radio Drill"

("Hide yer eyes, Mabel!)

Little Giant Razor Blade Plane...already had the other version, this does flats...

Had

These 2 items...plus a 18" long pair of Dividers ( Blacksmith's?)

Had to keep moving..else someone would be placing a price tag on me...yes, I am indeed an Antique....

Folks, I inherited this wonderful set of Japanese chisels a few years back from a deceased old woodworker, a WWII and Korean War veteran James Ecklar, who was a friend of our lifetime friends. I was fortunate to inherit many of his tools including the old workbench you see in many of my images.

So, these hoops are either falling off, or are loose. Do you have any suggestions how to tighten them back onto the handles?

Someone please tell me the proper use of this. I know what i have used it for but always wondered if I was right. Thanks in advance ☺️

At least that is what the tool has cast on to it..

US PAT. No. 94 2-28-11 as in FEB. 28, 1911

Other knob is a bit fancier...

And, they even provided a small ruler to use..

Supposed to be used for door hinges..?

Might come in handy to set the hinges for the doors in that Sideboard Project?

This never gets old 🙂

His drawer back "through dovetails".

I received my E.C. Emmerich Jack Plane a few days ago and I finally got a chance to get familiar with it.

Firstly, I have only "played" with wood body planes, I never really got serious about learning much about them, how to adjust etc. And, the few wood body planes I do have are pretty tore up and require some restoration and I haven't done it, I am capable of it, but just haven't done it as I've always been happy with my metal body planes, LN, Lee Valley and a few Stanley's.

So to have a brand new wood body plane ready to go out of the box, gave me a head start to understand how they are supposed to perform. And I love mine!

So here is my very first E.C. Emmerich Jack, the iron is wrapped in plastic still, straight out of the box.

Literature that came with the plane. Basic care and adjustment instructions.

The iron that came with this plane is pretty robust, thick, solid, and sharp out of the box, I did not have to grind it, hone it, polish it or anything. The instructions say this iron should be good to use immediately, and I found that to be the case. Speaking of the bevel, the iron has its primary bevel and that's it, that's the way I actually like my plane irons, and my chisels. I know there is much attraction to having a micro bevel or secondary bevel for quick honing, but frankly, any planes I have gotten I remove the micro bevel. Just not a big fan of that philosophy. I like to sharpen one bevel, and not deal with an additional angle for a micro bevel. After all, primary bevels worked for centuries, and they still work today.

It took me a few minutes to get used to the process of setting the iron depth, but it didn't take too long to get it. I have the rhythm already, tap the rear button to loosen, tap the top of the iron to set lower, if it's too low, wrap the rear button to bring the iron up, take a test cut, then set the wedge with a tap at the top of the wedge. This is what I love about woodworking, learning new techniques. It keeps me motivated and feeling special. Now I can set a wood body plane iron successfully! After a few thick shavings from my pine board, I got it set to take a nice thin clean shaving, almost lace like, but I am not there yet in adjusting, it'll take a few more uses before I can get it set for lacey shavings, but the shaving at the bottom of the image was the best I could do after 10 minutes of use, it's still pretty thin. The iron is very sharp, leaving a glassy smooth surface.

The front tote and the rear of the plane configuration where my right had wraps around the body, is very comfortable, it didn't take long for me to get accustomed to that grip, it actually felt very natural.

One thing I noticed, again out of the box, the shavings are coming straight up and out of the body, they aren't curling right at the mouth exit, and that is a sign of a well tuned hand plane, the shavings curled after they exited the body entirely and is what you see on the bench.

Needless to say, based on my excitement right now, I'm ready to sell my metal body planes and replace them all with wood body planes. Now, I know that thought is very premature, I'm in the honey moon period, but hey, ya never know! Keep your eyes on the classifieds section of our forum!

I purchased my plane from Peck Tool, shipping was quick, no nonsense anything, I bought the plane, and it arrived as expected, and with a little hand written thank you note. I chose Peck Tool because I have to use my Paypal account to purchase, it allows me to make a few payments interest free, it just works for me. The other retailers that carry ECE Planes, don't allow Paypal, Lee Valley, Highland Woodworking etc. But Peck tool does. In addition, they are based here in the US, and I truly like supporting our US retailers.

So a little shout out to Chris from Peck tool, thanks! And I'll give a follow up review after I've used it for more material processing beside the edge of a pine board.

Peck Tool

Ran into this today. Been around since I was a kid. Not a mystery as to what it is but I'm sure the company is long gone. I took it down to the shop for some future use.

I stopped by a Flea Market that is held on Tuesday's here in Florence after dropping my wife off at work. Looked around a few booths and was about to leave when I spotted for a short distance this Spokeshave. Picking it up and looking at the logo on the blade I knew this was an old spoke.

The real find was when I took a bit of spit, works wonders removing dirt and rust, most mothers use it on kids, and wiped across the blade. The logo that appeared was one of the 1800's. I quickly pulled out my iPhone and went to the bookmarked page and saw that this logo is from 1874-1884.

This is the logo on the cutters.

The logo on the second blade is a little more worn but for 130 to 140 years old is not too bad.

A little harder to read but you can still make it out.

Wow I love making finds like. It now has a home and will be displayed.

That almost was forgotten. Part of the dollar deal that the Stanley #3 SW Level came with

All rusty and neglected. Teeth looked like they never even touched a board, other than a keyhole saw had some old plaster on it. Well a trip to the Dungeon Rehab Center, and we now have a new backsaw for the tool box

There IS an etch, too. Says Eclipse. That price tag says "All for $1". Plate was very rusty, but not pitted. Wire cup brush in the drill press cleaned it up. Got a might warm, too. Wiped the metal down with a candle. Teeth are sharp, and there are a LOT of them. Worked just fine in my miter box. But, wait, there IS more here

Had a cheap back saw from another nest of saws, flimsy thing. Handle seems to fit this skew back "Panel Saw" a bit better, anyway. Them teeth have never ever seen a bit of wood. Works as either a crosscut, or a rip. Need to get a tooth count, later. More, you say?

Try this badboy. This IS a RIP saw. Handle used to be on a RUSTED up, Sandvik. Made a change to the handle, using the "new" scrollsaw. Mean looking teeth. These last two saws were hung on the nest of saws so long, that one left a clean area on the other's rusty plate. Ah, but there is more to this story, still

A recycled tote, made into the tote for this evil looking blade. It did had some plaster on it, and might have been the only blade ever used. Thinking this is either a Keyhole saw, or a Compass saw? Either way, I do have a spare blade for this handle

A little smaller version. Might be a good Drywall saw. Not too bad for a $1 at a Barn sale? Considering that a level came along with it....