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MWA609 - Deneb Puchalski: 5 Questions & WWing News

Deneb returns to answer the 5 Questions. We explore his core hand tools, Stick Chairs, working with intention, and more. Plus the Woodworking News. Check it Out!

Deneb Puchalski

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Sean Wisniewski

Brian Obst

Jeff Wyatt


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Mouse Poop?, Dark wood Marking, Veneer Glue and MORE!!!

29 May 2026 at 13:18

Brians Questions:

I frequently work with dark wood, and need to mark the cuts. Do you have a recommendation for a white pencil or pen that is fine tipped? Thank you for the great show and your time to produce it. -George

What has been your favorite veneering project (or what project would you like to do with veneer) George

Guys Questions:

Hey guys, your recent talk about bandsaws made wonder if anyone is using anything cool for bandsaw infeed and out feed, im using roller stands and doing resaw cuts that are about 10’ long. I also was curious how you guys would go about making a cabinet over a toilet not require filler strips? Maybe a scribed face frame? Great podcast lately, i really enjoy it. Tyler

I’m making a bow front dresser and the bow will be made by gluing up 1/8th” bending play. The front of the drawers will be 1/16th” shop sawn cherry veneer. I’m planning on putting 1/32” backing veneer on the inside of the bow. To make up the bow i will have a couple glue ups. The first glue up will be the 1/8th” bending ply and the 1/32” backing veneer. For ease of use, I plan to use unibond one for this glue up. The second glue up for the front piece of 1/16” cherry veneer I plan to use Unibond 800 to ensure there is no wood movement later, since the height of some of the drawers will be 10”.

My questions are: is 1/32 backing veneer ok seeing the front piece of veneer is 1/16”? And second: is using Unibond 800 a bad idea because it will only be for the front piece of veneer. Mike

Huys Questions:

Hi, Love the show. I recently got into woodworking as part of my stress relief from my W2 job (ICU work) and have fallen in love with it. I have expanded my tool chest and have a makita track saw and recently noted there was a variable speed setting on it. What guide do you utilize to change that setting? I have had it on 6 since I got the saw and never even thought to change it. I did finally follow your advice and upgrade my blade with a CMT finish 36 tooth carbide blade and what a difference cutting through hardwoods.
Thanks, Viyeka

Anyway, i wanted to ask how you would go about cleaning mouse droppings on your wood.
The cdc (because of the hantavirus scare) suggests using bleach and then wiping but it seems harsh on raw wood stock. I don’t want the bleach to penetrate too deep. I was thinking of spraying with a soapy solution and then gently wiping it off all my wood.
What do you think? —vaibhav from chicago

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171 – Western Redcedar

27 May 2026 at 13:08

Click to play Shannon’s Lumber Industry Update · 171 Western Redcedar WEstern Redcedar: an Exterior Wood DreamIts not actually a Cedar but who cares. Western Redcedar is an amazing exterior wood used in everything form boats to guitars, decks, shingles, siding and pergolas. Its known as the tree of life among the native peoples of […]

The post 171 – Western Redcedar appeared first on Shannon's Lumber Industry Update.

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MWA608 - Deneb Puchalski: Lie-Nielsen Toolworks and more

On this episode, we’re excited to welcome Deneb Puchalski as our guest. Deneb is the lead demonstrator for Lie-Nielsen Toolworks and has travelled far and wide teaching people how to use Hand Tools. Deneb studied and taught woodworking at the Center for Furniture Craftsmanship in Rockport, Maine. He continues to teach hand tool workshops and has written many articles for all of your favorite woodworking publications. Check it Out!

Deneb Puchalski

Sutherland Welles Finishes - Use code "MWA25" for 10% off your first order

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Hosts' Contact Info:

Kyle Barton

Sean Wisniewski

Brian Obst

Jeff Wyatt


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MWA607 - Brian Brace & 5 Questions; Plus WWing News

Brian returns to answer the 5 Questions. We explore the Multi-Router, Charles Greene's Desk, when to walk away, and more. Plus the Woodworking News. Check it Out!

Brian Brace

WWing News 

Sutherland Welles Finishes - Use code "MWA25" for 10% off your first order

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MWA Podcast - Patreon Page
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Hosts' Contact Info:

Kyle Barton

Sean Wisniewski

Brian Obst

Jeff Wyatt

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Design Software, First Veneer Projects, Extinct Tools and MORE!!!

15 May 2026 at 13:08

Brians Questions:

Hi guys! Long time listener, first time question-asker! Thanks very much for the show. I’ve been listening for a few years now and love the no-nonsense, down to business approach of your show.
I am a hobby woodworker, but have begun to get a few paying projects, which have been really fun and rewarding. One of the things that has forced me to do, as opposed to things I make for fun, for myself, or for gifts, is to do more design and modeling up front. I’ve gotten proficient enough with Fusion 360 to be able to create a 3D model that I can use to visualize for myself or show a client, and have most of what I need to build.
What I’ve discovered about Fusion is that you can model a HUGE amount of detail. I’ve found that modeling detail down to the rabbits, dados and understanding and determing the detail of each joint to be very helpful. I recently built a few large cabinets out of plywood using rabbet and dado joinery. I did not go to the trouble of actually modeling each rabbit and dado. When I was buidling it, I wished I had. A while back I built a cabinet from plans and they modeled ever rabbit, dado, hole… and I found it to be very helpful. I was also thinking that modeling all that might take alot of time and not be worth the effort.
All of that is just an example for context. My question actually is, How much detail do you go into when you model/design your own pieces and what are some of the reasons you do the level of detail you do?
Thanks again for the great podcast an I’m excited to hear your answers! Jeff

I just got into a shop with power for more than lights for the first time in several years, and I dug out several routers that I couldnt say no to, even though I was exiled to hand tools at the time. Between those and the ones I had before, I’ve probably got a half-dozen of various sizes; enough, I think, to leave a couple in permanent setups. Just wondering, how many routers do you guys have, and how do to maximize their utility in your own work flows (with permanent setups, favorite jigs, etc)? Scott

Guys Questions:

Hello from Alabama,
I am in the planning stages of building a dispenser for boxed wine. I have some highly figured walnut that I would like to use for the side panels. However, the pieces I have are fairly thin.
I am considering using 1/4 inch plywood as a core between 2 pieces of the thin walnut for each panel to prevent warping in the future.
The plywood that I have on hand is currently somewhat warped itself.
My question is: If I use this plywood as a core and apply sufficient clamping pressure during the glue up, should this panel remain flat? Or would you use MDF or HDF instead?
Also, would you recommend any other glue rather than water resistant PVA?
Thank you all for doing the Podcast. Woodshop Life is the BEST woodworking podcast out there, and I appreciate each of you for taking time out of your busy schedules to provide this service to all of us. Juston (Wild Chicken Woodworks)

1) I just drove down to Mississippi and met an old friend for the first time (if he’s listening, he’ll know who he is) to buy a Vacupress and associated gear. In this stuff, there was a flitch if cherry veneer (it was curled like a plane shaving from wing rolled, but appears really smooth, as in not wrinkled) and several starter packs of 3 sq/ft of some exotics (specifically satinwood, zebrawood, and rosewood, if interested). I’m super excited to put my first pump to work and have grand aspirations of masterpieces with figured exotics, but in the meantime, I don’t know where to start. Do you guys have any recommendations? What were your first veneer projects? Scott

Huy’s Questions:

Hi guys, thanks for your responses to my drum/belt sanding and tenon cutting questions a few months back. Here’s a hopefully fun one to think about: what is a tool that is no longer made or is no longer “in style” that you either can’t imagine working without or wish you had acquired when it was more readily available? Why? I always love hearing and learning about those “forgotten” tools and techniques that at some previous time were a normal part of the craft. Thanks! Michael

Hello Gentlemen,
I am a hobbyist woodworker, with a small shop nestled in the corner of my 2 car garage. I’ve been using a DeWalt contractor table saw for the past 12 years, and have gotten good enough results with it that I’ve never bothered to upgrade to anything bigger.
However, the thing that bothers me most about this saw is the virtual lack of dust collection. Even though there’s a dust collection port on the back under the blade, most of the dust drops straight to the floor. And I’m sick and tired of having to shop vac my entire garage after making even just a couple quick cuts. I think it’s time to invest in something that can manage dust a bit better.
My question is: what brand/model of table saw would you recommend that is
(1) easily mobile
(2) doesn’t take up a large footprint, and
(3) has the best dust collection?
Because my shop is small, I do not have an actual dust collector. I’ve been using a 6.5 horsepower shop vac with a dust separator for all these years, and would prefer to stick with this setup for now if possible. Can you explain the pros and cons of using this setup with a table saw versus using an actual dust collector? If I need an actual dust collector to get the results I’m looking for with the new saw, what kind would you recommend to keep the cost and footprint low?
Oh, and hopefully the saw would be under $1500, but could possibly stretch to $2000 as long as all the requirements are met.
Thanks for your help, and thanks for providing the best woodworking podcast on the planet!
Best, Matt

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170 – Spalting and Spalted Wood

13 May 2026 at 17:48

Click to play Shannon’s Lumber Industry Update · 170 – Spalting Spalted Wood is Expensive RotIn this episode I talk about spalting. What is it? Is it bad for the wood? What causes it? Can you create it yourself. All these fun fungal answers and more. Thanks to John for bringing up this topic. Listener […]

The post 170 – Spalting and Spalted Wood appeared first on Shannon's Lumber Industry Update.

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MWA606 - Brian Brace: Master Roycroft Artisan

Brian Brace is our guest on this Episode. Brian is an accomplished, award-winning professional woodworker with a passion for Arts & Crafts furniture. He is a Master Roycroft Artisan and works out of his shop in Black Mountain, North Carolina. This is a fascinating and entertaining conversation with a true master of the craft. Check it out!

Brian Brace

Sutherland Welles Finishes - Use code "MWA25" for 10% off your first order

Texas Woodworking Festival - Use code "MWAP10" for 10% off your tickets 

MWA Podcast - Patreon Page
@mwa_podcast on Instagram

Hosts' Contact Info:

Kyle Barton

Sean Wisniewski

Brian Obst

Jeff Wyatt

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MWA605 - Austin Waldo & 5 Other Questions; Plus WWing News

Austin returns to answer the 5 Other Questions. We explore his new shop plans, cherry, wiping rags, and more. Plus the Woodworking News. Check it Out!

Austin Waldo

WWing News

Sutherland Welles Finishes - Use code "MWA25" for 10% off your first order

Texas Woodworking Festival - Use code "MWAP10" for 10% off your tickets 

MWA Podcast - Patreon Page
@mwa_podcast on Instagram

Hosts' Contact Info:

Kyle Barton

Sean Wisniewski

Brian Obst

Jeff Wyatt


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Face Frames, Rubio Monocoat, Accurate Marking and MORE!!!

1 May 2026 at 13:31

Brians Questions:

Hello and greetings from Texas,
I’m an amateur woodworker who may have bitten off a little more than I could chew. I started building full closet cabinets for my walk-in master closet, and at this point I’m too far in to turn back, so I’m learning as I go.
All of the cabinet boxes are installed, and I’m now working on shelves and drawer fronts. My question is about face frames. I’ve seen a lot of people recommend assembling the full face frame first and then installing it as a unit, rather than attaching each rail and stile individually.
What are the real advantages of building and installing the face frame as one piece versus installing it piece by piece?
One complication in my situation is that my walls weren’t perfectly square when I started, and as a result some of my cabinets aren’t perfectly square either. I’m trying to figure out which approach will give me the best final result given those imperfections.
Thanks for taking the time to read this, and for all the knowledge you put out there—it’s been a huge help on this project.
Thank you,
Casey
Wood You Rather

  1. The first question is about accuracy. What is your own degree of tolerance when it comes to measurements, without going crazy? I guess it depends on the project, but for example, when cutting panels to specific dimensions with a track saw, do you try to get the measurements down to the nearest 1/16th? nearest 1/32nd? 1/64th?
  2. On a related note, the measuring marks on the ruler or parallel guides of course have a width themselves… Do you place your pencil or stop pointer just before the line/mark, in the middle of the line, or just after the line? Does it not matter as long as you’re consistent? I know this isn’t NASA, but I don’t want the project to ultimately look amateurish. Josh

Guys Questions:

First, thank you for answering my other questions.
Guy points out that Rubio Monocoat is made for wood floors when others talk about using it on wood furniture. Is there an actual disadvantage or problem with using Rubio on fine furniture when you want a finish that can withstand the abuse that a floor gets?
Thanks again for the great show!
George

  1. Any advice for staining blotchy baltic birch plywood with Gel stain and tips for finishing with water-based urethane topcoat? I have heard so many different opinions, from putting a slip coat of mineral spirits, to using preconditioner, to applying gel stain directly on the wood, etc. Josh

Huys Questions:

I am working on a large kitchen cabinet project and have come across a few questions I thought would make good discussion. Project includes 16 base cabinets, 14 uppers, range hood and a couple of custom spice racks, open shelves etc. Upper will have 14″ upper uppers stacked on them with glass fronts. Lowers are almost entirely drawers. Carcasses are about done heading into face frames and drawers.
-Ripping down face frame lumber. When batching out large amounts of 1 1/2″ strips what is your preferred method. Table saw then sand? Table saw proud then plane? Table saw then drum sand? Will a bandsaw with ripping blade provide a nicer edge? Major concerns are efficiency and accuracy while avoiding saw marks that have to be hand sanded off.
-Ever use a shaper to add dado on 8′ strips of wood for drawer box parts? Wondering if there is a good way to setup the shaper with power feeder to run through all the strips then cut to length. Essentially making my own drawer blanks.
Any other thoughts or recommendations when batching out large cabinet projects.
Matt

I have the Grizzly benchtop oscillating edge and spindle sander that I believe a couple of you have mentioned owning currently or in the past. I’m working on some oak glue-ups that are using some odd angles that will be template routed later. The problem I’m having is that when I use the edge sander to dial in these pieces my edges are getting slightly rounded over and becoming convex. I’d love to have a large disk sander but this is what I’m working with and I can’t figure out if it’s a tension or pressure issue or the oscillation is causing it… any help is greatly appreciated! Keep up the great work! Shawn

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169 – Pacific Madrone

29 April 2026 at 14:11

Shannon’s Lumber Industry Update · 169 – Pacific Madrone Pacific Madrone - Refrigerator TreeIn this episode I feature Pacific Madrone. An interesting pinkish-orange hardwood with the same hardnesss of Hard Maple but a lot more character. I also talk about drying Holly and the gunk build up from Olive and many oily woods. Featured Species: […]

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MWA604 - Austin Waldo & 2026 Texas Woodworking Festival

On this episode, we’re excited to welcome back Austin Waldo to talk about the upcoming 2026 Texas Woodworking Festival. Austin is a longtime friend of the show and the founder and event producer behind TWF. There’s a lot to look forward to this year; from expanded educational opportunities and a vibrant marketplace to a fun pinewood derby. Check it out!

Austin Waldo

Sutherland Welles Finishes - Use code "MWA25" for 10% off your first order

Texas Woodworking Festival - Use code "MWAP10" for 10% off your tickets 

MWA Podcast - Patreon Page
@mwa_podcast on Instagram

Hosts' Contact Info:

Kyle Barton

Sean Wisniewski

Brian Obst

Jeff Wyatt

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MWA603 - Owen Madden & 5 Questions; Plus WWing News

Owen returns to answer the 5 Questions. We explore block planes, Japanese tools, Art Nouveau, and more. Plus the Woodworking News. Check it Out!

Owen Madden

Sutherland Welles Finishes - Use code "MWA25" for 10% off your first order

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Hosts' Contact Info:

Kyle Barton

Sean Wisniewski

Brian Obst

Jeff Wyatt

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Leg Glue Up, Kitchen Drawers, Radial Arm Saw? and MORE!!!

17 April 2026 at 13:19

Brians Questions:

I am getting ready to build a mission style entertainment center. This project will use what I’m told is arched pedestal legs which was used a lot by Gustav Stickley. I will be gluing up three 5 3/4″x 28″ quarter sawn white oak blanks to make the legs. I will then route the curve using a compression bit and template which I made using the Shaper Origin.
My question is what are some good methods to ensure there is a tight (almost invisible) line on the glue up of the blanks. The legs are going to be a major feature on this piece and I would hate for the lines to be visible. I’ve done glue ups for square legs before and have pretty good success although not perfect. I know grain match is a big deal but wanted to pick your guys brains on clamping methods, glue type and anything else you can suggest to ensure success.
Yours is the best podcast on the net.
Tom Young

I recently upgraded from a 9” ryobi bench top bandsaw to a craftsman 10” Floor standing. I’d like to build a mobile base for it. My question is, how tall should the table be? Should it be elbow high? Waste high? Higher ? Lower? For context, I’m mostly a hand tool guy and, although I have a dinky table saw, I don’t use it much, favoring the bandsaw. I’ll do some light resawing and other more detailed work with it. Thanks guys and Guy. Love the show.Jason

Guys Questions:

I am working on a large kitchen cabinet project and have come across a few questions I thought would make good discussion. Project includes 16 base cabinets, 14 uppers, range hood and a couple of custom spice racks, open shelves etc. Upper will have 14″ upper uppers stacked on them with glass fronts. Lowers are almost entirely drawers. Carcasses are about done heading into face frames and drawers.
-Drawer box preferences or use cases for solid wood vs plywood with edge banding. I am leaning towards plywood due to number I need (38), being simpler to use prefinished ply then mill down rough cut. But it seems like cheating…..Large Pots and pans drawers 3/4″ sides or 5/8″ sides?
-Drawer box construction when using overlay fronts. I do not have a dovetail jig. I may end up just pocket screwing them which is what I have done in the past but I wanted to add an upscale touch. I tried my domino with Sipo dominoes, pin nailed the box together first and then put two 5×30 dominoes in. To me the hole created was not that tight with the domino, didn’t look nice. I see some YouTube experts make it seem easy, any experience or thoughts? Also thought of using drawer lock bit on the new to me shaper I just picked up but no experience yet. (Grizzly 3hp) Thoughts or preferences?
Any other thoughts or recommendations when batching out large cabinet projects.
Matt

Hola Y’all,
I have been listening to y’all for a little over a year, and woodworking for two years. Best Podcast on the interwebs!
I was recently gifted a used Grizzly Go555 14″ 1HP. I have never owned a Bandsaw and I want to use it mainly for resawing. I was told it is working fine, but I prefer to “Trust, but Verify”. My questions are:

  1. What tune-up/preventive maintenance should I do immediately?
  2. What upgrades should I do for resawing hardwood?

Thanks so much!
Peace, Love, and Sawdust
Norris Sebastian
Grandad’s Workshop

Huy’s Questions:

Hey guys! I am a full-time journeyman carpenter and I work in the commercial sector around the Indianapolis area. Currently working at the new IU Health Hospital downtown. I’ve been doing carpentry professionally for nearly 9 years. Almost half of a year ago, I decided to purchase a 4×4 shapeoko 5 pro and got involved with learning about cnc. As friends and family found out about my new acquired skill, I’ve been asked to make various types of wood related projects-some requiring cnc and some that don’t. I have a decent amount of handheld power tools and jobsite tools I’ve acquired through the years. Thankfully those tools have helped me in completing non-cnc related projects but my problem is the lack of woodworking tools and equipment at my disposal. Many times I’ve turned down projects due to not having the right tools. Other times I’ve taken extra steps to complete tasks, but had I just had the right tool, it could’ve been a breeze. I want to have a nice wood shop in my barn eventually but not sure how to prioritize my wants and needs. Considering trading the cnc to instantly increase my wood shop tool budget and maybe revisiting it in the future. With a focus on increasing my wood working tools and building up my shop—What are some upgrades/ tool trades/ must-have-tools to kickstart my wood shop? What tools should I get rid of?
Tools at my current disposal/ 4×4 shapeoko 5 pro, a dw 8-1/4” table saw, dw 735 planer, dw 10” miter saw, Bosch random orbital sander, metabo belt sander , ridgid oscillating spindle sander, central machine drill press, various dw drills/ impacts/ saw zalls/ oscillator/ hammer drill/ jig saw/ circular saw etc.
Tools that could’ve made my life easier in the past- a jointer, band saw, track saw, drum sander, router table, etc
Thanks,
Holden
P.s. My dad and I carpool together during the work week and love listening to the podcast-we especially have come fond of Guy’s no bs, straightforward attitude. Keep up the good work!

Korey from Independence, KY again. I was thinking about getting radial arm saw to use exclusively for dados. I have never seen a radial arm saw in person. They can be found very cheaply on Facebook marketplace and space in not an issue for me. Do you think it would be worth it and can you use it to cut dados safely. What are some other good uses for a radial arm saw. Thank you and keep up the good work.
Korey

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168 – The Woods that Make the Movements

16 April 2026 at 00:07

Click to play Shannon’s Lumber Industry Update · LU168 DesignStyleWoods Design Styles and Wood SpeciesDecorative arts trends are often tied to a particular species of wood. In this episode I discuss how and why certain species become intertwined in a design style.  Queen Anne with Mahogany, Arts & Crafts with White Oak, Midcentury with Teak, […]

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MWA602 - Owen Madden & The Woodworkers Book Club

On this episode, we’re excited to welcome Owen Madden as our guest. Owen is an outstanding professional woodworker, an Assistant Editor at Fine Woodworking, and the creator of The Woodworker’s Book Club. It’s a great interview that touches on all aspects of Owen’s fascinating career in woodworking.

Owen Madden

Sutherland Welles Finishes - Use code "MWA25" for 10% off your first order

MWA Podcast - Patreon Page
@mwa_podcast on Instagram

Hosts' Contact Info:

Kyle Barton

Sean Wisniewski

Brian Obst

Jeff Wyatt

💾

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