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I have been making and selling woodcarving knives on Ebay with some success. I am using american walnut, cherry and a few unknown tropical hardwoods. My finish of choice is thinned urethane spar varnish, sanded to 220 and then a second thinned coat that I wiped on and then rubbed off.The next day the handles were nice and smooth with the grain filled.
On you tube some members used TruOil which is predominately used for gun refinishing. Never used this before but the finish looks really deep and durable. The process takes a few days but maybe it's worthwhile.
Any users down under use TruOil or something similar ?
Cheers
We have a couple of large Cape Lilac trees in the back yard. Very good for providing shade in the summer (even though they make a bit of a mess in the cooler months). Last week, a severe storm blew one of the main branches of one of these trees down - it landed across the fence and on the next door neighbour's washing line. There was also another large branch from the same tree which was threatening to drop where we park our cars during the daytime when I am working in the shed. So I cut it down and together with what I recovered from the neighbour's yard, I now have a pretty large pile of cut logs from this tree.
It's a bit green / wet to do anything serious with yet, but I tried a bit the other day to see what it looks like. Looking forward to turning a few bowls etc from the larger logs.
A friend has asked me about the possibility of repairing a Waldown drill press that belongs to someone he knows; it has wear between the quill and housing so there is excessive sideways movement in the quill. Would it be practicable to bore out and sleeve the housing where the quill runs? I know these machines are worth quite a bit but I don't know what he's willing to spend on it. Also seems to me that boring out the housing and then pressing in a sleeve (?bronze) would risk cracking the housing, also the quill itself might need cylindrical grinding if there is wear there. Anyone done this sort of overhaul on one of these?
A mate purchased a Johnson/Suzuki 140hp outboard on christmas day 2023, he done afull service but was left head scratching as the engine kept over heating even after a impeller change
He dropped the engine off to me to sell on his behalf, today i looked it over and found the problem in 10mins as to why it was'nt pumping water, there was no back pressure on the pee hole port (pee hole where the water stream's out to show the engine's cooling system is working)
The engine us basically a Suzuki Swift car engine that Suzuki reporpoused as a outboard
1 hour on the lathe i machined this 15mm OD, .9mm O-ring, first go didn't fit using a 2mm O-ring
Some here may remember a post I started 2019-20 in regard to our men shed having to relocate. Now, in 2023 all of a sudden there is active moment to relocate us with land earmarked, paperwork in place waiting for the final tick of approval.
We were asked if we had a set of plans, simple answer is yes. Anyone that has built a shed will be aware there is a HOST of considerations to be made, The shed itself is easy, then you move to the internal layout and this is just the start of a much bigger conversation.
We feel we are close to the final layout. Mind you there is still things being considered where doors and windows are located, machinery layout, in all areas, plumbing, electrical, finishings, and the list goes on.
As this is a new build we are focusing on machinery layout in a functional way (bound to move things around later) as this leads to the best location of the dust extraction system and electrical requirements. As for electrical system we are basing this on our current requirements, our future machinery purchases then add more.
The one thing we have planned is to separate the community machine training area (large machinery) from the community work training area (assemble area) with a full height wall to help minimise dust movement between areas. The far back right outside the kitchen will be a large BBQ area and situated opposite the office with a 4 meter space will be two covered 12m containers for extra stowage and our garden section.
I'm aware we have a way to go and this build will not start till 2024, however we are striving to have working plans developed and in place before December.
Have a look at the plans, feedback is always helpful. Of course if I have done this correct you will have a plan attached.
I have discovered that with a light touch I can use the top edge of a spindle gouge with a fingernail grind as almost a scraper cutting inside curves very nicely and getting lovely fine ribbon shavings.
I am cutting up the hill against the grain :o - it helps me to get a nice radius easily and the surface quality is decent like any scraped surface.
Is this bad practice?
I assume a dedicated scraper would be preferred for this job but I only have a core set of good tools.
I am thinking about replacing an internal set of stairs that connects the 2 main levels of our split level house (1.86m height difference). The main reason is that they are getting old and are fairly basic (not even rounded at the nose), made from pacific maple; and I'd like to increase the riser height and tread depth slightly by reducing from 11 steps to 10 (giving a 186mm rise and a 245mm going / 275mm tread). I plan on using a good quality hardwood for the risers and treads. I will also add a skirting to each side of the stairs rather than just butting the gyprock walls as it does now.
In order to minimise any demolition/rework necessary, I plan to simply add two new stringers (360x45 LVL possibly) inside the old stringers (cutting off all the steps on the old stringer in-situ).
Now for my first question: There are only two stringers on the original stairs (which are 930mm wide and were built with the house in 1985), but I have read that the recommendation is to have three stringers for this width. I have never experienced any flex with the existing stairs (treads are 30mm thick and risers are 20mm thick) and do not want to add unnecessary expense and difficulty to the project. My thoughts are that the hardwood will be much stronger than the maple, each tread is fully supported along its length by the riser underneath and the riser at the back going up (by screws through the riser into the back of the tread). Also, the new stringers will slightly closer spaced (approx 790 centres). Is this reasonable?
My second question: I note from youtube tutorials that the stringers are usually screwed into deep joists on the upper floor; however in my case the joists are 90x42 hardwood and run parallel to the stringers. The builder has skew nailed a cross member between two joists (there are double joists each side of the stairs to support the walls each side), but the stringers are not butted against this cross member. The top ends of the stringers appear to be mainly supported by some steel strapping nailed into the joists and the stringers beneath them. Is this OK? It seems a bit suspect to me, so I plan to physically butt them onto the cross member and screws through to the stringers (as well as screwing them to the old stringers which are strapped to the joists).
Hi, I've this plane. It's a Preston but it's a bit weird as it doesn't have the E and P in the circles of their symbol and has "PATENT" stamped on the side under one of their symbols. Any idea of a date of manufacture. Internet says 1900-1930's.
I have a half speed Vicmarc 2hp grinder with 2 Vicmarc CBN wheels, 80 grt and 180grt together with 2 tormek bench mounts for tormek jigs. This is a fantastic system which will do all your grinding and sharpening needs. On current retail prices we are looking at around $1300 new, I am asking $900 pick up only as it weights a tonne. IMG_4791.jpgIMG_4792.jpgIMG_4793.jpgIMG_4794.jpgIMG_4795.jpgIMG_4796.jpgIMG_4797.jpg
I've put it up for $2k (cost $7K new) but I am well aware it's not worth much, so the price is negotiable. It's also on marketplace but I've no interest except from the usual scammers.
moving workshop into a hired shed that has no dunny or back yard :D :oo:
I have access to an old Sun Mar composting toilet, its like sitting on a throne...seriously. The downside is the broken seat and it appears the seats are no longer available.
If I go new I am looking at $2K+ lot of spoondodles for 2 people using 3-4 times a week.
The other track that I wanted info on is there are many brands styles used for camping/caravans. I dont want a frame, seat amd bucket, hopefully something closer to the sun mar.
Thats where I am hoping our camping caravanners will offer suggestions
Hello once again everyone This will be my next canvas. Made from a glued up Maple blank, this will be another Kokopelli theme project. There will be piercing, carving and coloring, this is just the 8" x 8" hollowed blank with 1/4" wall. The base section will be cut away after all the Piercing & carving work is complete.
I'm making a 900mm x 700mm picture frame out of 65 x 18 pine DAR that for reasons of finish, must be painted and sealed prior to glue up. Because of the textured finish I can't fill any gaps after glue up. The most accurate miters I've managed to do thus far ends up with a ~1mm gap in one corner when the frame pieces are aligned. I assume this is a compounding error of say a 0.125mm per cut along the 45°. That's to say I'm not cutting at exactly 45°.
The above done with a track saw on a jig with the 45° alignment set up using 800mm test pieces and a 600mm square.
I have some 160mm and 100mm old bore pipe and I need to cut 4 of the 160mm lengths in half and I have a new and never used 3 year old Hyperthern Powermax 45XP and I went to a safety shop and they said I need a $350 pair of glasses.
Does this sound right or is there a slightly cheaper glasses option.
The rubber pads on my clamps have self destructed.
Help desk at Irwin cannot help me ... not available.
Special Orders at Bunnings ... not really interested.
stan
Cleaning out the shed and I have a number of tools I no longer use, the first of these is a mini lathe from CarbaTec. Great little unit in good condition and perfect for the woodworkers starting out with wood turning (I've upgraded to a larger variable speed lathe). Comes with a Nova chuck adapter plus all the standard fittings from CarbaTec (tool rest, live centre, fixed centre and attaching plate) DSC01350.jpgDSC01349.jpg
Price is $150 and pick up from Bassendean in Perth WA
Bought a box of old tools that contained a couple of old hand drills at an on farm Clearance sale. A fellow at the sale immediately offered me $25 for one ofthe hand drills but he seemed a bit over eager so I said no. I have never seen a professionally made tool like Drill number one before!!
I have a photo of the tools but do not know how to put them onto this forum????
Drill number one is very old about 300 mm long, has a timber handle like a brace and bit that is attached to a cast straight shaft that offsets 45 degrees that then has a crank with a timber handle set at 45 degrees to the original shaft . When the crank is turned it operates a small universal joint that turns the shaft to the bit holder which is in line with the original shaft. There are no markings on the tool. I wondered Who made the tool? What is a tool like this worth.
Drill two is a two speed breast drill with an exposed crank wheel that is painted red . The speed is changed by removing the crank wheel and putting it into a second mounting hole that allows it to engage the shaftmounted bevel pinion. The only markings I can find are on the crank handle they say No 50 and then MIT A Mit with a continuous arrow through the letters. Who made this drill? How old would it be?
Should I restore the tools or just oil them and mount on a display? Both tools work?
I suspect the fellow who offered me $25 was after a bargain. Do I keep for my collection or Sell?
Made me look at al the old tools in my farm shed and I am going sort them and to put some together as a colllection, it would be a shame to see them just lost or destroyed
I've noticed that lathes in clearing sales from industrial workshops rarely seem to be fitted with a quick-change toolpost. Given that the addition of a QCTP to my own lathe several years ago was such a dramatic improvement in useability and productivity I'm a bit puzzled that industrial workshops seem to shun them. Is there a particular reason for this?
This is a series of pics that I took while putting a new handle on an old hammer. The hammer is nothing special, just something I can throw into my tool box, so the finish and look are just as ordinary as you would expect for something like that. Interesting exercise though.
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With the rubber grip removed you can see the shaft. I have recently replaced the stacked leather handle on a Cattaraugus knife so was inspired to do similar on this.
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1st job was an endcap/pommel. (thanks KB pensand more)
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Then cutting the leather and glueing it on with a clamp. I used kangaroo leather so it took a lot of pieces.
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Glueing and clamping finished and the end cap in place. I drilled a hole through the end cap and put a concrete mail to hold it all in place.
I have an old table, The table used to have some very damaged lacquer on it. I stripped off the lacquer with citrusstrip, and the surface looks pretty good.
I noticed three recessed plug-holes on the surface where I can feel the other ends of dowels/pegs sticking out of the bottom surface. Since the pegs go all the way through, I think it was some sort of original fill that maybe had/has putty or glue on top.
The table is 28.75 x 49.5x0.75", perhaps walnut? Top made from two edge-glued boards, probably pegged, since the rest of the construction is pegged. Slotted wood screws hold the top to the skirt. It looks pretty old.
Because it is an heirloom from my wife's mother, I do not want to do too much more processing to the top surface. I was wondering how to fill the divots. I do not want to try to pound the pegs further up through the holes, since they might be glued and might lift the edges of the through holes. Since my wife grew up with the table and has memories, I don't want to mess with it too much, but she'd like a modern finish without susceptibility to water rings.
My two questions are:
* How should I fill the three shallow holes (each ~1/32" deep, ~3/8" dia)
Actually I'm an atheist. G'day everyone - I'm not only new to this forum but forums in general!... Me: For the past few years I've been teaching myself how to power carve wood sculptures and it's been a fantastic ride but also frustrating at times because my knowledge is limited and I don't have a mentor figure I can consult. It had never actually occurred to me to reach out and talk to people far more skilled and knowledgeable than myself, so for that reason I'm very happy to be here and look forward to bugging you with questions, to learning from you and sharing with you.
I bought a cheap old super cruddy and rusty Falcon No4 plane on ebay to convert into a rough scrub plane.
In this case a picture DID NOT paint a thousand words. Every part was caked in layers of rust with all threads seized. Don't yet know what pitting lies underneath. Knob and tote have small cracks and are almost bleached grey but that I can fix.
I have got all metal parts disassembled except for the blade, chip breaker, and chip breaker screw assembly. The screw just doesn't want to budge. Have tried vinegar, CRC, mineral oil, heat, tapping with hammer, and brute force.
Does any one have any suggestions. I don't have any metalworking tools or equipment in my workshop.
Alternatively does any one have a chip breaker and screw I could purchase from them at reasonable price. Bear in mind the plane only cost $3.25 + postage. So if it's too much of a hassle I will keep salvageable parts, bin the rest and buy another No 4.
Reference to "surface the boat" suggests that this might be related to operating a submarine, as perhaps might be the more general prohibition on "forbid strictly the rap and the collision".
My name is Robert from near Newcastle NSW.
I was a fitter by trade but enjoyed woodwork as a hobby and have owner built two houses where I did all of the internal woodwork.
In my current house I also built all my own kitchen and bathroom cupboards as well as all the built-ins.
I know this is not very artistic but a lot of router work for the cupboards.
I have built a couple of stereo cabinets and a nice bedhead.
A few years ago I had a rush of blood and bought a heap of Veritas gear from Carbatec.
None of it has ever been used and I am going to sell the lot so will be posting adds soon.
Thanks for having me.
A few years ago I was building a steel and concrete retaining wall. I had the angle grinder out and was cutting off and grinding smooth a flat bar I had welded to the UC uprights. A support while the concrete was being poured.
Anyway, I’m focused on what I’m doing and over the noise of the grinder I hear something different. A weird crackling sound. I heard it through my earmuffs. Curious, I stopped what I was doing. The crackling sound was coming from the grass around me that was on fire. I was almost in the middle of it. I suspect wearing overalls kept the heat away, and firies had described Warrandyte (where I was at the time) as a bushfire hot spot.
It was only a little patch of flame but stamping on it wasn’t doing much. I ran for the hose. Not there. But there was a bucket nearby. Do you know how long it takes to fill a bucket when you’re in a hurry? I ran back and the spread of the fire was about 3-4 times the area when I left it only a couple of minutes earlier. Not enough water. Splashing water is a nearly useless method of putting a fire out. More mad dashes to the tap, it got bigger before I began to win, and I got it out.
Some beautiful little wildflowers came up in that spot later, and the grass seemed a different colour from the surroundings. A reminder of what could have happened.
It was a work area. There were piles of dirt all over the place, the grass that was there had been well and truly trampled, there was not a blade of grass standing upright, and it looked like nothing would catch fire, but it did.
Be careful this summer if you’re working outside. This year might be a scorcher according to the weather bureau.
Due to space restrictions I am using a Triton 2000 as my main table saw. And its quite capable for the small amount of work that I do.
However, the dust extraction is pretty poor.
I've made a dust bag that encloses the motor and bottom of the table but I don't have the bayonet connector that plugs into the top of the blade guard.
If anyone has a hose or collector bucket set up that they are willing to part with let me know.
Mine Claim - Steel Pipe.jpg (150.2 KB) 