Turning

Subject:
EndGrain
Response To:
Re: Variations On A Theme ()

Mark Mandell - Gone Round In New Jersey
Actually, the Red Maple stash was cut and waxed 2 years ago to make way for the shop. Most of it is now 18-20% max MC.

The Ambrosia and Silver maple was dead wet. Pieces got several applications of Anchorseal. Pieces are turned between centers to establish the profile (they're not straight-line shapes), a tenon is cut on one end for the scroll chuck, then the ends trued up and re-waxed. If the piece will be a lidded or capped vessel, two sections are parted off (I use a hacksaw for the narrow kerf) and waxed. The blank gets hollowed and basically gets "spin dried". Having left the wall thickness a bit heavy, I allow the body to sit for several days to make sure the tension is released. I then re-turn in and out if needed to have the body run true. The joint ring is glued in and opened and then cap is hollowed (vacuum chuck) to fit the body ring. The cap is turned down flush with the body. Lastly, the piece is sanded, the cap is removed, and the body is reversed in a jamb chuck to turn off the tenon and finish the bottom.

For an un-capped / necked jar, I turn the profile then paint the outside surface with Anchorseal.

Even though I'm turning with the pith in the center, checking hasn't been much of an issue. If the piece is already cracked, as much of the Red Maple is, I may chose to fill the cracks with epoxy before I start turning. The Red Maple jar I posted here a few weeks ago is a good example of crack filling.

© 1998 - 2017 by Ellis Walentine. All rights reserved.
No parts of this web site may be reproduced in any form or by
any means without the written permission of the publisher.

WOODCENTRAL, P.O. BOX 493, SPRINGTOWN, PA 18081