Re: 2 Morse Taper Collets *PIC*
Response To:
Re: 2 Morse Taper Collets ()

John K Jordan
Mr Stafford Sir,

I sure wish you could turn things like you used to, but life goes on. My hands are getting to where the fingers cramp if I work too long on small, detailed things, but for now at least, after a rest and doing something different for a while I can continue.

For anyone who may be interested...

I made a little template to get the taper right the first time (well, sometimes the second time!) but it took a while to make.

These days I use, and teach - since not everyone is going to make a template - two cheap vernier calipers, one for the the high side and one for the low side about 1/2" away. I measure an existing taper at a point a little past where it extends from the headstock taper and one 1/2 inch back. I use 1/2" since the parting tool I use is 1/2" wide and I can hold it against the wood and burnish first one edge then the other and not have to measure! I keep two cheap calipers set to these dimensions, locked down firmly, and labeled "L" and "S" with a red sharpie.

I size both places with the parting tool then by eye remove wood to make a taper, then extend the larger taper a bit for clearance. I find it easier to get right if I remove a bit of wood in between the two ends, thinning it ever so slightly so the wood actually rides on two places in the socket.

As I mentioned, in addition to letting me turn a longer spindle on a small lathe, this method allows perfect registration if I need to remount the piece later to finish. (Difficult or impossible with a 4-jaw scroll chuck.) I've pulled out wands that I started on months before and put them on the lathe and continued where I left off. Sometimes when making a batch I would turn a bunch then leave the sanding and finishing for later.

I do have a PDF on turning thin spindles if anyone wants it - just send me an email. It's is sore need of new photos and some updating but a number of people have told me they made good use of it.


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