Turning

Subject:
Re: A question *PIC*
Response To:
A question ()

Keith Tompkins
HI Bill, I'll try to answer everyone's questions at once. First, I always hold my blank in a chuck; I try to leave a long tenon, just in case I run out of room. I can just slide my blank out of the jaws, and retighten. I use jaws that will open about an inch. I use the tailstock just to get the piece fairly round, then remove it. My usual tools: Craftsman 1/2" skew, high carbon, not HS steel. Packard 3/8 spindle gouge. I have a handful of specialty tools, mostly fluteless gouges in 3/16" and 1/8". See pic of 3/16" tool. It's ground on top, then the same angle for the bevel, which is kept to a minimum. I showed it in comparison to a Thompson detail gouge...notice the cutting edge is near the bottom, not the top as in the detail gouge. The tool won't roll over and catch. The cutter is embedded in a stainless steel rod for support, no flexing, and I can use the tool far over the tool rest. Long handle, turned on two axis points...fits my hand, and won't roll off the table. I find the tailstock must be removed...any pressure causes the blank to flex, and one cannot get the 1/16" or less diameter I want. I don't try to make a long, skinny finial....that will create a straight line, and I avoid that, I want a flowing curve. Yes, sketches are invaluable. If I want to fly by the seat of my pants, I can. But, production pieces are more successful with a plan. Hope this helps.

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