wands and things *PIC*
Response To:
Re: long thin spindles ()

John K Jordan
>>>Nice wands there, John! You might be interested in another result when one adds tension to the spindle. ...

Thanks! I've made hundreds of wands - made one just a couple of days ago on a request.

I experimented once with tension (in my mind) and convinced myself it would in fact work well. However, I have zero problems with turning these spindles from any wood I've tried so far using the morse taper jam chuck method. I use the "left hand steady" technique with skew or gouges, cutting to left, right, or even underhand like this:

I hold the tool close to the tool rest with one hand and jam the end of the tool handle into the underside of my forearm so the skew is kind of an extension of my arm. My left arm rests on the top of the headstock.

If there is any chatter, it is almost always controllable by adjusting tailstock a bit, changing the speed up or down, or grabbing a slightly different tool.

This method works so well I don't want to add the complexity of the tension. Also, I'd have to use some method on the headstock other than the short MT2 under compression. I don't like to use a chuck since the morse taper give me more clearance around the end. (Another reason to NOT use a chuck is when turning these on the Jet mini lathe - the lathe is just barely long enough to hold the blank with the morse taper - using a chuck would make the wand pretty short. Harry Potter book release time:

(Oops, sorry, I got carried away with photos again!)

When turning longer, thinner spindles I had to use a 1/4-20 drawbar in a threaded hole in the morse taper end to hold the wood securely in the lathe spindle since any tension from the tailstock introduced chatter. I did the most of these with the right end completely unsupported except from my hand:

These are blackboard and whiteboard pointers, 25-26" long, tapering to about 1/8", pine shelving board from Home Depot and walnut.

Short versions of these are conductor's batons:

Good clean fun!


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