For Bill T and you, Sanding grits

Barry Irby
This is a two parter....

I went and rummaged through my belts. Found an unused 36 grit and 80 Grit. A fairly new 120 was on the machine.

Found a piece of white oak with band mill exterior/dry. Ripped it into two 3" wide pieces about 20" long. Not flat, had about a 3/32" arch in both. 3/4" thick. Also took a strip about 2" wide and 40" long and resawed it with the fresh blade on my bandsaw. Fairly nice surface, very slightly wavy. Ran that though with the 120. Took two light passes to remove the saw marks and wave.

Changed to the 36 grit belt and ran one of the 3" wide pieces through. Took three passes, half a turn each to clean up the surface, about one minute. Left grit scratches. Ran the Performax at full speed and it dogged down a bit but did not stop.

Changed to the 80 grit belt and ran the other 3" piece through. Took Six passes to clean up the surface. When I tried to lower the head a half turn the machine bogged down and the drum stopped. Had to use 1/4 turn passes. Much nicer smoother surface but it took twice as long, about 2 minutes.

I was wrong about the 36 grit requiring more power. Clearly it would level the surface faster, If you can call a 36 grit surface level.

Speaking of level, Neither grit straightened the boards. They both retained their arch. This would not be an issue for veneer if you run it through on a sled.

I wonder if the 36 grit scratches would be an issue for really thin veneer? You would clearly have to sand the face side better.

If I had a lot of strips to do, I would consider thicknessing them all to a uniform thickness with 36 grit and then giving them a pass at 80 and 120 on the face side.

Next I am gong to try the sled with sandpaper facing to see if I can avoid the double stick tape.

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For Bill T and you, Sanding grits
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