Re: The explanation in the link is incorrect

Barry Irby
So, I did a test.

I used two scraps of cherry, ripping one at a glacial pace on a glue line rip blade, purposefully causing it to burn the wood. the other one I ripped a t "normal" speed resulting in a piece that had only a small patch of burn.

I put a drop of water on one burned surface and one fresh clean surface and waited. It became apparent after only a couple of minutes the water was spreading and setting the surface pretty much equally.

I glued them back together with Titebond Original, burn to burn and clean to clean, and left them over night. Split them with a chisel. Set the chisel right on the glue line on the end and struck it sharply. The burned piece failed right down the glue line with only about 1% of one piece left sticking to the other. 99% failure. The clean piece split about a 1/4" down the glue line and then followed the grain. 99% success. Then I turned it around and struck it from the other end. This time the little patch of burned area failed and the rest of the glue line held up. About 85% success.

I realize this is not a thorough or scientific test, but it's enough for me to conclude it's a good idea to clean the surface, removing the burned area on any joint. And although I am not a hand tool guy, the people that take a pass with a jointer plane have a good idea. Never seen a hand plane burn the wood.

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