Messages

Subject:
Re: Finishing
Response To:
Re: Finishing ()

William Duffield
I alos have an L-N 112. I agree with Hank's assessment. I've also used a Stanley #80 and probably have one laying around somewhere, and have some understanding of the Veritas large scraper plane. It has one advantage over the L-N: In addition to the thick, basically unbendable blade like other incarnations of the old Stanley #112, it can also use a thin, bendable blade, like the Stanley #80. This blade, and its bending mechanism, allows a cambered scraping action so that tracks from the corner of the blade are not left in the surface being scraped. With a #112 and it's ilk, you accomplish the same thing by relieving the corners of the blade when you are honing it.

You can also equip either the L-N or the Veritas plane with a toothing blade, for flattening very difficult figured wood or for preparing the substrate for gluing veneer to it.

Mostly, I use card scrapers, but since applying a clear finish can very clearly show the dubtle differences in the surface left by a scraper vs. a high angle plane vs. a double iron plane, I tend to follow Frank Klausz's advise, especially for table tops: "First you plane; then you scrape; then you sand."

Variations on the #112

http://supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan12.htm#num112

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,310&p=48431

https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/scraping-planes/large-scraping-plane?node=4075

http://supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan3.htm#num12

Variations on the #80

http://supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan10.htm#num80
http://www.leevalley.com/us/hardware/page.aspx?p=46266&cat=41182,68491

Warning: If you find a green one (Kunz) out there, run quickly in the other direction, but note that the #80 is a much simpler tool and therefore much more difficult for the Horror Frights of this world to screw up.

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