John in NM
Just a 1/2" 3 or 4 tpi blade. My use if very much like yours, though lately I have kept a dedicated resaw blade on hand. Same size, just one that is designed to cut a bit smoother (mine is a Woodslicer, there are several similar options).

I also like Highland's general purpose blades, cut is really good, better than those I make myself. They run $15 or so for my saw, a little more than a Supercut (shop I used to work for used those, they are good too).

For cheap, I buy 100' rolls of blade stock from Victor Machinery in Brooklyn. Last time it came out to about $5 per blade (mine are 111"). I silver solder them with a home made jig and jewelers (hard) solder. Welds last longer than my solder joints, but then I'm not very good at it

To be honest, I'm really not sure your lead problem will be solved by the blade. There's no basis for the claim that I'm aware of, and wheel alignment is simply more plausible. But I've never had to fix one - I was lucky to buy a saw new that ran true from day 1. I've used wanderers in various shops, but the boss never wanted me to spend time correcting the saw.