Hand Tools

Finishing Junk... *PIC*

David Weaver
Bill showed a :dump knife: or :trash knife: a few months ago that I'd made from scrap/cutoffs. I got a little static (rightfully so) because it may have come across that I was calling bill's knife trash (but only the part of it that I made, because it was just heated and tempered- I can recall now that I never forged it, and didn't thermal cycle it - it's a good indication of how good O1 can be purchased spheroidized if it's just made hot and then made cold quickly and then made warm.

So, one of the things that I did when I got a belt grinder is grind a bunch of really junky knives. I learned a lot. I learned that they warped a lot when heat treated if the surfaces weren't uniform - some of them, I ground too thin, and in the end, I only put a handle on one knife - an XHP mule - and it's still sitting in the shop now covered iwth a thick layer of tan dust.

I looked on the floor after hearing a ping, and laying there was a white prelaminated knife (white steel) with the back of the heel chipped fairly badly. I don't know what to do with it - it'll never be "reputable" because I ground it so thin that some of the cladding has "hollow spots". Its shape is also funny now from grinding the warp out of it (it's straight) and then grinding off the heel.

well, perfect - now, it's a mule again. What can I do to reprofile it (not difficult) and then how will it respond if I never cut a secondary bevel on it except slack belt and then deburring wheel and then buffer.

This is the dump knife - the wood is just scrap african pear with the slot for the handle drilled into it and then filled with epoxy (so, not appropriate, but doesn't look as bad as you'd guess).

No shaping other than the belt grinder wheel (there are a lot of knife guys who almost entirely make handles contoured on a couple of different diameter contact wheels. Not a skill I have, so the handles is just quick and dirty. In order to prevent it turning black from my filthy hands, I put CA on it. Not well, just put a drop on and spread it out.

It's too light to be safe to use (2.5 ounces) and a hoot to use cutting something soft - any fruit.

But after sharpening it on the "Regular uni plus deburr" (the deburring wheel is the "medium stone"), it felt very odd on a hard slick plastic cutting board. Like there was cutting resistance, but every sharpness test it was dandy (it even hangs a hair right off of the buffer).

I eventually realized what it is - when you slice vegetables with it, it's cutting into the plastic cutting board and ruining the jones. That's a new one. I'm hiding it in the shop as the mrs. would throw it away immediately if she used it.

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