Hand Tools

Subject:
Re: wood chemistry
Response To:
wood chemistry ()

David Weaver
I've read what happens with wood when it's kiln dried, and further what happens when it's dried to temperature over about 385F (which is stylish for guitars and often claimed to make the wood same as old wood - it may make it similar in certain ways, but it's not the same).

I can feel the difference between AD apple and KD apple, but with a sample size of 5, that's not definitive.

what I have been the recipient of more than once, though is:
* improperly dried KD wood
* AD wood that was claimed to be years old that couldn't have been more than months (I had to tend to that - beech in this case - to stop early checking and could feel the moisture in it, and then once it dried for a season, it behaves similarly to KD. For beech and apple, sawing orientation is much more important than how it's dried. That seems to be the case for guitar necks, too. The whole need for any of these treatments other than trying to stiffen acoustic guitar tops without buying wood that's good in the first place is to make up for low quality wood and poor sawing orientation. Which is kind of a shame when it's often a $1500 guitar that's deemed unfit for <$10 more in wood cost.

I'll leave the arguments for air dried, kiln dried and baked in furniture wood over the long term to people who build furniture, though. I've not had trouble with anything dried either way as long as it's actually dry.

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