Hand Tools

Subject:
Boy am I a DS sometimes..picture fix

David Weaver
The last two pictures are japanese. One should've been V11.

I'm sure I could find a way to accommodate the V11 with this method to be damage free, but it is truly different in is behavior from what I can see in regard to sensitivity to bevel. It cuts well at a low bevel angle and it's harder to get it to cease all damage at higher angles.

At the same time, I was able to significantly limit the sorby damage, but in the test, it wasn't eliminated. Since I'm unfamiliar with the V11 chisel and bought it for this test, I unicorned it "harder" the second time until it as visually similar to the other chisels and the picture is from the second trial and not the first.

The yellow cells in the data table are intended to show that there's a real possibility that if the average person unicorned a sorby chisel, they may get equal performance to V11 in some variations. You can see from the pictures of the edge damage that this is also in regard to durability.

Otherwise, the V11 substantially outperforms the sorby and that's not a surprise. V11 also seems to give less feedback when damaged (whatever it does to fail, or perhaps something to do with the amount of slick chromium in the alloy, it doesn't feel blunted and bounce in the cut as much as the damage adds up).

These are all just observations. The sweetest of the chisels in sharpening and use combined is the japanese chisel, and the MK 2 AI sharpens and grinds much better than does V11 (even when we're talking about using diamonds and CBN), so when unicorned, it's my non-japanese preference. That won't be in the article.

I didn't use the japanese chisel unicorned before this, either - like the V11 chisel, I just set it up and did the tests. Similar with the MK2, I unicorned it a bit before, but not much. Too much fascination with stepping up wonky chisels, I guess.

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