This is a used wooden handle sheffield footprint chisels. It's a good chisel and re-establishing the bevel at a steeper angle (without adjusting the grind) and then buffing the tip over again yielded good performance).
I think in this case, the rounded tip was probably fine, but the bevel behind it wasn't enough to keep the rounded edge from breaking off or getting pushed back into the secondary bevel.
The damage didn't come close to getting into the grind itself, as you can see, and resetting the secondary bevel (which probably removed a few thousandths) to something closer to what's described elsewhere solved the problem (there is a concern of mine with very thin grinds, and that's the practicality of doing them without introducing a lot of heat over a thin cross section. I'm sure a metallurgist could describe, but I get the sense that a thicker cross section is much more efficient at transporting heat generated at the edge into the thicker body of the chisel. This is with a broken in 80 grit CBN wheel, too.
To the extent that heat is mostly unavoidable, I'd think something like a tormek is more appropriate for such a thin grind -it would be possible to maintain by hand, too, but tedious due to the shallow angle.
V11 behaves differently than the other steels in the unicorn. I did grind a bit off of the V11 chisel that I tested, though, with a wet paper towel laying on the chisel -because of V11s somewhat different behavior, and slow grinding and creation of much more heat grinding, I used the footprint chisel.
These chisels are spec at 61 hardness, or similar to the AI MK2. One of the last good mass produced chisels from sheffield that later got a clumsy grind (some seemed to just be rebadged late sheffield marples) and then went overseas - I have no experience with the ones made outside of England. Long story short, they're pretty good chisels when you can find them, and with patience, not that expensive (perhaps $50 for an NOS set of 4)
TMI, I'm sure.