Hand Tools

Subject:
Re: A little more ... *PIC*
Response To:
A little more ... ()

Winston
Derek, I'm glad that you tried it out and had good success with the chisels and planes! Sometimes when I write about the good results I've been getting, I start to think maybe I'm crazy or have mixed things up somehow. So it's good to get confirmation.

A few thoughts about your experiences:

It's possible that what seemed like a burr on the back of the blade was actually largely buffing compound. That's what I found when I looked at the back of a buffed blade under the scope. Of course, stropping off the back on a piece of wood won't do any harm even if that's what's happening in your case.

This is the back of the blade with compound:

Regarding the uneven edge you got for the plane blade, what kind of stone are you using before buffing?

I found that if I go directly from the 1000 grit diamond plate to the buffer, or even sometimes from Shapton 1000 to the buffer, I sometimes get a wavy (but smooth) edge, and I think it's due to the large burr that was left from the stones. The buffing removes the burr, but leaves behind some of the uneven shape of the burr. This is an example of a wavy edge:

As you said, that probably doesn't matter for chisels, but it does for planes. I found that if I went to a finer grit first, I was better able to get a straight edge. I suspect that the kind of buffing wheel and compound can make a difference here, but I'm not sure. (My guess is that a stiffer wheel and more abrasive compound will do a better job straightening out an edge than a soft wheel and fine compound.)

I've been wondering how a buffed edge will behave in a bevel-up plane. For example, if the blade has a 30 degree bevel, but then a tiny 45 degree microbevel only in the .001" or .002" right at the edge, does it leave a surface like a blade with a full-size 45-degree bevel, or a 30-degree bevel, or something in between? That's something that still has to be looked at.

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