Hand Tools

This kind of confirmation is invaluable...

David Weaver
...I have no idea what ideas thrown out are just stupid or aren't as easy to communicate until they're replicated.

I found those buck brothers chisels really "Rubbery" feeling but when I had them, I rounded the edges over in a much longer roundover bevel (probably a sold 16th of an inch or more) and they then held up OK, but I didn't get the subtlety at that point of being able to do very little to get them to hold up (and they were tough business through softwood because of the wedging of the bigger roundover).

On the chisels traditionally having a bigger roundover at the tip, like the pigstickers, I think they were actually intended to be used bevel down and that roundover was ridden. The UK guys say they were production tools, and my use of them also suggests that a large full bevel makes a lot of friction that's not encountered in smaller tools. I thought that the roundover was for sharpening ease (afield) and to prevent damage only, but I think that's not correct - so when I imitated it to limit damage, the result was a chisel that acted like it had a big bevel (separate and aside, when the rounded bevel gets to the point that it's a 16th of an inch or more, it's not hard to ride it.

So, I see this type of bevel everywhere but would've guessed that it's been sussed into the lower effort like this only by some carvers who use buffers and will eventually get to it because it's just less work to use the tools with it, and while we don't like chipping, it's intolerable for carving unless you really love scraping and sanding things and adding a lot of time to the work.

I posted a video of unicorning a plane iron and one of the comments already is from someone who isn't happy about having just bought shapton stones to use and take much more time. With some talking and refreshing an iron that really was ready for a regrind, I think the total process was about a minute 5 or a minute and 10 seconds. When I sharpen with a washita only and strop, I think that's about a similar time expenditure but there's less chance of finding any unremoved nicks with the unicorn method since it pushes a small layer of metal off that would be unlikely to be addressed with stones.

Is the last picture of the bevel before or after chiseling? I found the rubbery steel on those buck brothers chisels relatively compliant to bending uniformly at the edge of the chisel without really sustaining too much damage. It could almost just be realigned.

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