Hand Tools

Re: case fin...
Response To:
case fin... ()

David Weaver
bill had a good idea - wrap a thin cove moulding around the base of the top case, pinned to the top of the case (these two won't be apart. It wasn't even necessary to build this as two separate pieces but somewhere in my mind, I have the notion that someone will gleefully put these two things in different locations and the bottom case needs to be able to stand on its own.

The reason the bottom moulding of the top case is so tall is the bottom shelf is embedded in it and then I needed some "holding wood" below the dovetails that hold the bottom shelf to the sides. They are the mechanism holding the case together - the next two shelves are full length dovetails - my spontaneous deconstruction fears are a bit overwrought. But the base (of the top case) is plain, tall and the point where i saw the clash isn't when building the pieces separately, but when first sitting the case on top of the bottom case.

I neglected to realize (as a non furniture builder) that the separation isn't between cases, but by distance of mouldings, so the view of that bottom is really against the top of the case below and not in reference to the top moulding. Lesson learned.

Bill's idea is to (at the very least) cut a cove moulding that can be applied to the bottom of the top case and pinned in place. This is an easy thing and can be done later with the case in place. I think it will be a big improvement. Its orientation in the middle of the case means that making it not very thick will be fine I'm thinking a simple cove about 7/8" tall with flats of about 1/4" at the bottom and 1/8th at the top. By orientation, I mean, it doesn't need to face up at some drastic angle, but face more out into the room to someone standing 6 or 10 feet away.

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