Hand Tools

Subject:
really great for harder blades...

David Weaver
..derek has posted before about maintaining harder scrapers. One could easily be made and hardened wider than a plane iron if desirable.

There's no rolling a burr on something harder than about 55 or 56 or so - it breaks off (which is why the solignen knives don't seem that great once you buy even a lower tier japanese knife - they have to retain the ability to be steeled).

I used the chinese blade that bill is now familiar with (they're an almost M2 high speed steel - short of tungsten and molybdenum, which must be expensive relative to the other alloying elements), deburred it to about the same angle as the scraper mentioned, and polished off the burr on the buff.

It scrapes fabulously. An even hand with the deburring wheel doesn't threaten edge geometry much, and if it does, a regrind or honing off of the edge is fine, but it won't be necessary often.

Same extremely clean unbroken shavings (which tells you that the underlying surface won't be fuzzy) as the burr. I like the burr better, but burrs on scrapers don't last long on some guitar parts (ebony fingerboards, etc) and at the same time, after you plane a neck radius, if scraping the facets of the radius off results in much fuzz, that's just followed by much sanding and you can lose the geometry you carefully made. This can be seen as the frets aren't that flexible and undulations on a fingerboard of any type (especially at the edge) show up as little dark gaps under the frets.

That's enough for now. I have paying things to do today, but am always pleased to find something that's even lazier (but with better results) than the lazy methods that I use that are lazier than the methods generally taught.

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