Hand Tools

Subject:
Re: Update
Response To:
Update *PIC* ()

david weaver
I'd use the term hard tempered, but the same behavior isn't always due to hard tempering. Sometimes it's just due to a blade not being that great (and it's not always price related, either).

I think early on in learning a plane's behavior, even though it's not purist stuff, you're better off with a primary at 25 and then a secondary at 29 or 30 or so. Then, if the edge doesn't hold up, add a couple of degrees of *tiny* back bevel since you're not really afforded any greater angle on the bevel side due to clearance.

If the first stroke has chipping and lines, then there's a chipping during sharpening issue (either due to routine or something on a stone that's marking up the edge - the latter can be ruled out of you're sharpening something else on the stone at the same time without issue). If the chipping occurs during planing but not right away and continues to do so at 30 degrees total and above, it's probably just the quality of the iron.

Sharpening full bevel while you're figuring out the personality of the iron is fairly difficult. Freehanding japanese planes, I do all of my sharpening full bevel, but bias the final stone work only to be working the edge (rolling pressure up toward the edge a little bit).

If I was already at 29 or so, I may add a degree or two, you're limiting clearance a little bit but it would be easier at this point. I wouldn't use a japanese plane with 32 or so degrees of bevel angle on a regular basis, though - it will be out of clearance very quickly and never really have the strong pull in to the cut.

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