Hand Tools

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Re: question
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Wiley Horne
Hi Bill,

It’s sort of a combat method, and yes you got it right. The blade goes thru the paper with a tap, and bottoms out on a hard maple benchtop. The blade is 2 or more inches wide, so it doesn’t even make a visible dent. The cap iron is loose enough against the blade that it is not pulled down. Well, it’s a ballpark method, and I shouldn’t have used a decimal place :) , but as you say the errors tend to offset.

The main advantage of this method is that it is immediate, once you get the paper mic’ed. Anybody with a mic can do it fast, and get a visual memory of what a 7-8thou setback looks like. It’s bigger than you might think. If you don’t have a mic, ordinary garden variety Post-Its are close to 4 thou. The Truth: I was too lazy to go undo the Starrett thickness gauge leaves, and pull out the right ones to stand the cap iron on. That would have gotten an exact answer.

I didn’t notice a surface difference between uphill and downhill, but surely the downhill was brighter—the thing is, I was planing over the previous result, so had no side by side comparison. Blade was perfectly sharp, so the difference in push force was not noticeable either.

I couldn’t do final planing on the string section (the taper section). The table, shown here,

http://gallery.woodcentral.com/wp-content/gallery/wiley-horne/img_20150211_0010.jpg

has legs with an ebony ankle band and a spade foot below. That foot is integral. So you don’t have a clean run with a plane. What I did.....wait a day for everything to dry out, including wood abutting the channels, then (1) skewed scraper to remove most of the liquid hide glue squeeze out, (2) skewed LN shave to level any remaining string and glue still above grade, (3) file to detail, esp. the bottom down around the ebony bead and spade foot.

In other hands, the whole tapered section could have been scraped to final; but I was afraid of scraping swales on my first attempt, so used the LN shave to maintain as much level as possible. Also eased the arrises with 220g as I went so as not to tear out a splinter there with scraper or shave.

The horizontal string was done with scraper and file, as you say at an angle so as to cut it rather than grab it. Sandpaper tends to blur the edges of stringing and inlay—has to be cut with a tool to get a sharp result.

Thanks for asking,

Wiley

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