Hand Tools

Subject:
Re: Does anyone here have the

E Phillip Smith
Years ago I had one of those or one of the Asian knock offs, but pretty sure mine was 3600 rpm. Grinder is respectable and will do a good job but it is not the equivalent of one of the vintage American industrial models. On mine the tool rest were stamped steel not very useful. Tool rest are the bane on most grinders, and these days I like to make my own. That said if you look at the link you posted the guy is grinding a lathe tool and if you look carefully he is using a One Way grinding jig. I have that jig and used it with this grinder, It is really good upgrade. The tool rest is easily adjustable, very smooth so tools slide easily.

Over the years I've had several grinders, and these days they are some of the most used tools in the shop. Any thing from sharpening tools, chisels, planes, lawn mower blades, to resizing things that don't fit. Previous grinders were 6" sears. Wheels too small, terrible tool rest. Rikon 8". Tool rest were poor, tried Lee Valley Aluminum tool rest but did not like. Metal did not slide easily. Upgraded to One Way tool rest and grinder worked well.

I have since upgraded to two 10" old school Black and Decker industrial grinders, one stays setup for fine tool work and the other is setup for rough grinding and with wire wheel for rust and paint removal. I also have a 7" Milwaukee, setup with very soft pink wheels for tool grinding. These are great grinders and you can but very good surface grinding wheels that fit these in any grit, hardness and porosity you want.

Phil's suggestions for grinder selection.

1. Decide what hollow grind you want. Practical choices are 7", 8" and 10". 7" and 8" surface grinding wheels are readily available in broad range of grit and hardness, with bore diameter that is easily bushed to grinder shaft. 10" surface grinder wheels are available also but they have a 3" bore and will require custom bushing and more importantly custom flange to fit grinder. I still need to make these for my grinder. I prefer 10" for a relatively shallow hollow grind BUT that is just personal preference based on NO data.

2. Speed. My choice is based on price, buy whatever is cheapest, which normally the high speed 3600 rpm for 7" and 8" grinders and 1800 rpm for 10" grinders. With the correct wheel and a light touch burning the steel is not a problem.

3. I used to use a 3/4" or 1" wide wheel. These days my preference for TOOLS is a 1/2" wide wheel CROWNED so that only the center of the wheel grinds. Currently using a 46 grit, Radiac ruby wheel with J hardness. It is much harder than I prefer but it is what's available until I get around to making spacers for the softer surface grinding wheels. 46 grit cuts fast without over heating the tool. I typically grind to 1/32" to 1?64" of tool edge so you never have coarse grinding marks to remove, and even when to do grind to the edge fixed diamond stone quickly removes grinding marks. There is great article by Bill Tindall on grinding wheel selection over in the articles section. Once I learned to grind free hand with a crowned wheel can't imagine going back to a square wheel, so can't imagine paying a premium for the CBN wheels.

For reference the Milwaukee grinder is 21 1/2" wide and about 12" deep. The 10" Black and Decker grinders are about 25" wide and 12 to 15" deep. My recollection is that the Rikon grinder is narrower but don't know by how much.

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