Hand Tools

Subject:
Re: I've had a real struggle with this

david weaver
Hi Chris - I can only offer my thoughts. I've hammered all of my older bowed saws, and all have turned out fine. I've also hammered some tension back into a saw that I deburred the entire rusted top layer off of, and it also turned out fine (it was a pretty sorry excuse for a saw after heavy deburring, though, which one should expect given the tension is in the surface and not the rest of the plate - but that's to our benefit).

Anyway, I read smalser's tutorial, but to me, this is something you just have to play with until you see how your setup works.

A polished hammer with a convex face and a smooth metal backing surface and you can move metal. What I've found with my setup is that if I have a warp, I put the high side of the warp facing up, then bend the saw by hand so that it's contacting the anvil and tap on it. I'm "hammering the bump down", which is the opposite of what I thought would occur.

But however it works with your specific setup, it doesn't matter as long as you experiment some, observe what's going on and go relatively slow. If you hammer on the high side and it goes down, then do that when you need to. If you hammer on the low side and it comes back toward you instead of moving away, then do that.

If you were local, I'd hammer your saws for you. I hate to ship saws, though, because even if they're stuffed into a box with some pressure on teh saw somewhere, they can take a "set" of the curvature they were forced into in the box. That's actually what prompted me to experiment and figure it out - MJD sent me a nice box of saws and some dodo there taped them all together tightly, which means some will curve (think wrapping the toes as tightly as you can, then the center, then the handles - all saws lined up the same way. One may be lucky enough to be straight in the group, but the rest will be bent). They took on the curvature permanently just from being bound together tightly like that.

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