Hand Tools

Subject:
Re: Cap iron setback and shaving thickness

Sgian Dubh
"But there is one thing you mentioned that's awfully difficult to overcome, and that is planing over a large wide surface (because smoothing a table top wouldn't actually involve many sharpening cycles - my ash bench top required 1...one...uno (with a horrid stanley 70s iron)...anyway, the real issue here is that planing a large wide and long surface can be quite painful."

In my experience David, workbench tops are pretty small. The main flat work area of mine, for example, is only about 1,700 mm long by about 460 mm wide. True, overall the bench is bigger than that, but there's a tool well and a back board set at the same height as the top face of the main flat surface. The only other type of workbench I've used on a regular basis is the traditional English pattern where a wide tool well is enclosed by two work surfaces at either side that are typically about 220-250 mm wide by 1500 mm to 2000 mm long, so there's not much to flatten. In the end of course, it's just a workbench which gets bashed up, so it doesn't need to be pretty, just flat. I'm not particularly exercised by things like tearout on the working surfaces of a workbench top, so I'd never try to set up a plane to achieve a tear free surface - it's not worth the effort.

On the other hand, table tops like one I'm making now are a different story, this one being American white oak 2,500 mm long by 1100 mm wide with clamped ends. This does need to be prepped free of tearout, and your point about working such large surfaces is well made - they're a pain to prep to perfection with just hand planes. They're seldom perfectly flat meaning there are usually slight undulations that even a short number 4 plane won't reach the bottom of (the undulations that is) without significant time and effort so, for me anyway, I don't even try. I just knock off the worst of any steps at glue lines with a plane, and then get at it with scrapers and (usually) power sanding, plus perhaps a bit of hand sanding to finish off. It gets the job done quickly (noisily and dustily too usually which is a bit of a necessary pain) and more than good enough for ~98% of all those that will eventually view the finished article.

The roughly 2% of the population that might be able to work out the surface wasn't prepped entirely with hand planes aren't the sort of people likely to pay me to do such a job, so their informed knowledge of the likely techniques employed doesn't really matter. Unless, of course, they really are paying me to prep such a surface to perfection entirely with hand planes, in which case they'd also presumably expect to pay a matching premium price. Something along those lines has never occurred for me in all my working life in the craft furniture field ... but I guess there's still time yet for that, ha ha. Slainte.

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Cap iron setback and shaving thickness
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Redoing the test
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If you're a beginner...
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Re: And a quote....
Re: Radius of cambered blade - some #'s *LINK*
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Re: Cap iron setback and shaving thickness
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Contrariness
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Kato and Kawai
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Remarkable restraint
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Not really lighting it up
Correction
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This seems pointless
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Maguire
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The Virtue
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"Planecraft"
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My apologies
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The big difference
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Jupiter Cakes
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No tear stained defense needed..
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Set-back distance and measurebation
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swingley thread
Blackburn
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Andrew Hunter
Japanese planes
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Cap iron sharpening
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Re:cap iron sharpness and maintenance
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Pictures *PIC*
Cap iron sharpness
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Cut depth, species, and wear
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Simple concept, easy 'splanation
Re: Cap iron setback and shaving thickness
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Tried this again today
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Double Iron vs. Thick Iron
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Double Iron vs. Thick Iron
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Re: Cap iron setback and shaving thickness
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planing
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Consumables vs skilled labor
Actually, you've fed right into..
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I knew *PIC*
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By the way, Mark..
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