Hand Tools

Re: A testament to the quality of atoma stones

david weaver
You'd be surprised how well the atoma worked here. Making a steel lap would've been a waste of time, though I'd have done it if needed.

My stick (in the picture) has something I acquired a long time ago - "6500" grit. Must be 4 microns or something. It actually leaves a pretty good surface.

Well, that's one side of the stick. The other side is the 0.1 micron. That combination worked really well.

For a watch face like this, only the first step is really critical (for flatness). Most of the tutorals appear to recommend a rag after the first step, but I'm not going for that. (one of them recommended a rag and hand buffing for all steps. Recipe for ugly, maybe - in this case, it wouldn't have done the job).

The issue with the ezelap is something else other than polycrystalline. There are a couple of giant strays on it, which I know is common on DMT (they usually get ripped out, though), but the atoma, no such thing. The diamonds are in piles (as I'm sure you've seen) with the piles lined up like a marching band. Because of that, i don't like them so much for honing, they feel like honing on a zipper, but i always use them for japanese stones because they are the flattest economy diamond hone you'll find. This whole process with the deep scratch could be 10 minutes the next time I do it, but like said in the other post - hopefully not soon.

The favorite that I settled on has a curved sapphire lens. If it gets a deep scratch...well, I guess I'll have to fashion a concave lap, but it probably has compound geometry. I hope it never gets more than would hand buff out with half or quarter micron.

It's nice to try all of this stuff once, though. Just like it's nice to learn to take interior panels out of cars, and replace brake pads, rotors, etc..... Timing belts on a turbocharged european car...not so much.

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