Hand Tools

Subject:
Thanks, and a question (long)

Wiley Horne--So. Calif.
Hello Todd and all,

The gel temps you posted above are very useful, to wit,

--315g ........ 125F
--251g ........ 105-110F
--192g ........ 95F

I use hide in all dovetail joints and M&T's, and also in what one might call ' thick veneering', where the veneer is 3/32 to 1/8 thick--it's a stick of thin wood, quarter sawn generally. Many times the choice arises: Do I have time to get this thing together using hot hide, or would it be more sensible to use Old Brown Glue (OBG) and gain more work time? Your data give an idea of how much work time is available for the different gram strengths, and I was happily surprised to see how much flexibility there is in 192 gram glue, starting from say 140F. Never seen this info before, and it's a big help. Thank you.

My question is about veneering thin quartered wood onto a substrate, the substrate itself quartered or quasi-quartered (pieces ripped and re glued in a quartered direction). The question is how to go about keeping the upper side of the veneer--the unglued side--wet enough until the glue join seizes. For those that haven't done this operation, a thin piece of wood, and especially if it's quartered, just absolutely comes alive when the wet glue hits one side--it's curling within seconds. So of course you need to get glue on both sides of the veneer ASAP, and on the substrate as well, and sometimes a balancing glue up on the bottom side of the substrate, so that's a lot of glue spreading. To have enough work time, I've used OBG. But by giving up the hot hide option, I've given up the 'fast seize' benefit of hot hide, so the veneer piece has to be kept wet on the topside long enough for the OBG to grab hold at the join. To manage this, I put a wet towel over the veneer piece, After all glue layers are applied, and clamp it down using a full width caul. It works, but this is a big messy affair, and in clamping a caul onto the work, you have some risk of the darned thing moving a hair.

Question: There's got to be a better way. All ideas/experience appreciated. Can the above be managed by one person using hot glue?

Note: I'm not using hide because I think I'm doing museum work :) . I like hide in DTs and MTs because you get a spotless cleanup with a moist rag that won't show in the finish. In fact, with shallow drawers, I just dip the join pieces into the hot glue, and assemble them dripping wet. For the veneering described above, hide gives you a second chance--if anything goes wrong, reheat the glue and try again. With PVA, I would have to plane away the expensive appearance wood, and then try to find more of it.

Thanks in advance for all suggestions!

Wiley

© 1998 - 2017 by Ellis Walentine. All rights reserved.
No parts of this web site may be reproduced in any form or by
any means without the written permission of the publisher.

WOODCENTRAL, P.O. BOX 493, SPRINGTOWN, PA 18081