TomD
Presumably jointer planes possible fore planes.

First it would be helpful to know how to use a jointer plane. It is pretty simple, you start from the middle of the edge of a board, remove the middle third, then two thirds, then make almost full cuts. All along keep working till the plane won't cut, then more further towards the ends. Finally make a through cut. The edge should have the same curvature as described by an arc passing through the three points of both ends of the plane, and the blade in the middle. This creates a sprung glue joint. If the curve of the edge is too great, reduce blade projection, or rework from the ends in.

A fore plane is different noticeably curved blade, and flat sole, designed for final debarking of raw lumber/surface refining. So you treat it somewhere between a jack and a smoother.

Anywho. First examine your planes for signs of trouble. It often seems as though between then and now someone with no idea of how to use a plane has taken an axe to it. Signs of abuse from striking, or of crude enlargement of the mouth. This does not eliminate a plane from consideration but you might pass it over for another.

Also signs of wear or failure, such as split mouths, loose handles, missing strike buttons, mismatched blade parts or wedge, split abutments, blade used up to the end of the welded tool steel.

You may want to consider what to do about dirt/patina. You can plane or sand all signs of it off and start again, or you can preserve all of it. Minwax makes a minimally effective solvent for cleaning antiques. There seem to be a differences of opinion on what the tools looked like new. From pristine oiled, to tared.

If all is well, there is nothing all that different about returning to use an old plane, than making a Krenov plane a la Fink. Basic mechacnical blue printing job, return all parts to clean fair surfaces, all parts with good bearing, all parts with original spec.

In fact the whole thing is so like making a new plane that in many cases it is easier to do so, if one has the wood. All one is really passing on is the original opening of the block, other than that a big restoration job has more parts to it. It takes me 45 minutes to make a Krenov, and probably double that to make a plane with abutments. To get it cutting. Restoring old tools used to be more popular than it seems to be today, what with a lot of people making these tools again, and the large number of new age tools.

Michael Dunbar wrote two books on restoring tools, so you might start there if you actually need more info than what you learned in your course.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/0803858213/ref=tmm_hrd_used_olp_0?ie=UTF8&condition=used