Turning Archive 2006

Subject:
Wednesday Nite Chat - Photo Album 1/11/06 - HUGE

Ron in Drums PA
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1)
Ron (Sardo)In Drums PA
10" Maple Burl bowl

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2) Ed Kelle

This is the one I'd like to talk about tonight, still on my lathe, almost finished sanding. Spalted maple. kind of an onion shape that I have played with twice now, it is 7.5"W and just under 5" tall with thickness less than 1/2". I don't plan on doing any surface treatments to it unless I hear some good ideas. Not going to touch it any more until after tonight. Thanks!
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3) Ken DeMarco

Looks like there may be too many already, but here are two recent bowls of mine for critique. the first one I like alot, it is maple 9" wide 2 3/4" tall with no foot but a recessed base of 3" bowl is 3/8" thick 3 coats of walnut oil. alot of nice curl. To me this bowl has a nice look and feel. Nothing teribly fancy, but I think it is OK. comments apreciated

Thanks for looking, and I'm realy looking foward to tomorow nights chat, great Idea TD

Ken DeMarco
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4)georgetroy

Locust Bowl

This bowl was turned green. Drying & finishing process approx. 4 months. Finish is MinWax Tung Oil over 1 coat lacquer. Width 7.5" 4" Height. 1/4" thickness. Foot size 2 1/2" Locust does pretty good turning green. Cracks controlled with Super Glue. I try to keep shape of log. Bowl is reversed turned in Cole jaws to do the foot. Design is simple no beads, bumps or breaks. I hope I can get in the chat room Wednesday night. GT

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5)
Wally Dickerman in Arizona -- Monday, 9 January 2006, at 12:01 p.m.

This bowl is from a from a log that had some of the best figured maple that I've ever had. Solid fiddleback. I got over 30 pieces from it. Sadly, this is the only one that I kept.

Dimensions are 12 x 5 in. deep, plus the 3/8 in. foot. The walls are probably too thin for a salad bowl...1/8 inch. The beads were done with my shop-made beading tool.

Wally

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6)
TD
Starting this Wed we will offer some basic design pointers to help newbies get started and the intermediate to take a step up the ladder. We'll start with bowls. Please post a picture of your best bowl and comment on design features that you think are important. I will start it off with a pic of a bowl made to the thirds rule of proportions. The base is 1/3 the max diameter. I like my bowl heights to be between 1/3 and 1/2 the diameter. I feel when the height exceeds 1/2 the diameter that it is on longer a bowl but not a vase either. Comments welcome.
TD

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7)
Carole in VA -- Sunday, 8 January 2006, at 9:20 p.m.

Ya'll can pick apart one of my bowls if you want. This is a little Black Willow utility bowl. Don't own it anymore so I can't look at it again. It was 6"x3" with a consistent wall thickness of 1/8". The diameter of the foot (actually no foot, but a concave area) is about 1 7/8". Finished with Tried and True Original. If I had it to do over again, I can't decide if I would put a tiny foot on it or not.

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8)
Ed Kelle -- Monday, 9 January 2006, at 9:05 a.m.

A small mahagony bowl, I was trying to copy a shape from the Shaped for Woodturners book. Slightly more squat than the profile I worked from. The hardest part is getting in there to do the detailing on the beads and the foot. Supposed to be more of an ogee but I got a few catches. My most difficult times are when I try to do any sort of detailing on bowls such as beads. Really do not see it demonstrated in videos. I tend to do the old sideways skew scrape method.

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9)
Stuart Johnson -- Monday, 9 January 2006, at 9:17 a.m.

I have been working on form for a while now trying to come up with something that is pleasing and simple. As most of my attempts end up in the smoker I decided to use plywood rather than good wood for my samples. This one is one I like and would be interested to learn how to improve on the form.

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10)
Ed Karch -- Monday, 9 January 2006, at 10:47 a.m.

One of my best. I like the curve, the shadow lines below the rim, and the yinyang of the heartwood and sapwood. cherry 9"x3 1/4 with 1/16" foot 2 1/2" diameter. I dont remember the finish.

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11)
Paul in Phoenix, AZ -- Monday, 9 January 2006, at 12:31 p.m.

TD, here's an olive bowl I did last year. It's about 9" by 4". The feature I like about it most is the bead on the foot. It makes it look like it is sitting on a ring.

I don't know if I will be in the chat, I usually get home from work about that time.

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12)
AlbertaBob -- Monday, 9 January 2006, at 12:53 p.m.

Here's one.
Fire away.
A Ray Allan (Woodturning )design in Bloodwood, Purpelheart, Figured hard maple.
Feature ring is maple over blood wood with turquoise acrylic centers.
Black veneer rings are dyed maple.
Finish is Nitrocellulose lacquer.
Construction time is in the 10-15 hour range as it took so long to glue up the 272 pieces.

Drew

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13)
KurtK in Indy -- Monday, 9 January 2006, at 1:58 p.m.

These natural edged/formed bowls are what I've been spending alot of my time doing. It isn't terribly difficult and the particular piece of wood (in most cases burls)really dictates what the end result will look like. I kinda like that approach...it doesn't make me have to think too much and I still come out with a one of a kind. I owe the vast majority of my design "looks" to good old mother nature.

This bowl is a white oak burl that I had no idea what it would look like until I got below the bark and dirt/gunk all over it. Sorry about the pic...haven't gotten a new sheet for my photo box.

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14)
Jim King -- Monday, 9 January 2006, at 1:10 p.m.

The bowl is 9 inches in dia. X 3 ½ inches tall with a ¼ inch high 4 ½ inch dia. foot. About 3/16 thick. This simple design sells well for us. It is not distorted as it looks on the photo

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15)
Phil Powell -- Monday, 9 January 2006, at 1:37 p.m.

Here's an 8 inch maple bowl with redwood inlay in the rim. It's
fairly light weight and sits nice on a lable.

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16)
Wally Dickerman in Arizona -- Monday, 9 January 2006, at 12:17 p.m.

This bowl is quilted maple with Bolivian Rosewood for the rim and foot. I think that it's a good example of achieving good proportions by adding another kind of wood to a blank that isn't deep enough. Dia. is 11 inches x 4-1/2.

Photo quality isn't very good. I seldom turn open bowls, so I don't have many photos.

Wally

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17)
Chip Peterson

Box Elder, approximately 14" wide. Rough turned wet. Finished with BLO. Critiques welcomed.

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18)
Sam Dean

This is a cotton wood bowl, about 12" dia. by 5" tall and about 7/16" thick. The curves aren't as smooth as I would have liked; the wood was a bear to get a smooth cut on. It feels good in the hand though, so I decided to keep it as a utility dish.

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19)
T Daniel

this is a bowl on my lathe getting the final coats of oil. Note the mounting ring that allows me to re-mount for finishing. The ring incorporates a dovetail pocket

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20)
T Daniel
another shot of my mounting ring, this time on spalted wood (maple). With a little CA around the ring it holds well even in soft wood

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21)
T Daniel

oak burl with top lip reversed.

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22)
Mark Mandell

11-1/2 x about 7 "red" oak finish is poly rubbed out with compound

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22)
George Van

I just finished buffing this. I wanted to try a deeper shape with a more rounded bottom, yellow birch,10".25x5.75". I used a undercut rim to contain the kernels.Finished with tung oil/varnish.

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23)
This is an absolutely wonder piece done my Jimmy Clewes during a demo at Ohio Vally Woodturning Guild's Totally Turning 2005. It is about 9" at it's widest point.

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25)
The Following are Mark Kauder’s

9" Spalted Magnolia. This one has the feel of a well worn river rock (smooth).


10" dia. Yellowheart/Bloodwood/Maple


4.5" Dia Paduak/African Blackwood/maple


4" dia African Blackwood/Yellowheart/Bloodwood. This one is a little too round for me.


4" dia Canarywood/Blackwood/Maple


This is an Oak bowl - 15" in diameter. Low, 3.5"


12" Spalted Birdseye Maple

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