Turning Archive 2005

Subject:
Correction: Bowl Skew Geometry /Usage

Ed Moore
>First, I wish everyone a nice Thanksgiving.

I went to the shop this morning and looked at my bowl skew. I immediately realized that I had incorrectly described the sharpening process in my original post. Mea Culpa. Below you will find the corrected version of that post:

Two years ago at the OVWG Symposium I saw Dave Hout demonstrate the tool and he had each of us try it. Yes, I bought one. Start with a rectangular piece of stock that is 3/8 x 5/8" and grind a flute on the wide side that is 3/16" deep and extends from one edge to the other. Its cross-section is shallower than a bowl gouge and deeper than a spindle gouge, with two vertical sides and a flat bottom.

To sharpen this tool, put it on the platform of your grinding jig, which is at a 6 - 8 degree angle, and sharpen as if it were a slightly rounded scraper. Then, grind a secondary bevel at about 45 degrees so as to remove some of the heel of the first bevel.

To use this on the inside of a bowl, rotate the tool 90 degrees so that the right side is flat on the tool rest. Keep it flat and do not rotate the tool. Adjust the cut by dropping your right hand slightly. Think of this tool as being used to clean up the transition portion between the side and the bottom of the bowl. I regard it as sort of a "tweener". If you extend the tool into the bowl and adjust so that you are getting a cut then the cut will be a shear cut just below the center of the tool. Actually, you should try this with the lathe turned off and rotate the bowl by hand before you just dive in with the lathe on.

From my perspective the tool is better theoretically than it is practically. Possibly it deserves a second chance, but I have sort of moved on. In fairness, it did not produce catches, even though that square edge on the bottom looks like it will grab everything in sight.

Ed Moore

SW VA

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