Turning Archive 2005
>NORFOLK ISLAND PINE
I posted a NIP bowl on Friday the 27th and have received several emails asking how I arrived at this bowl and how I accomplished different aspects. I thought I would post this message to consolidate the answers and describe processes I went through. Iím no kind of expert on NIP or woodturning for that matter, these are just the processes I went through. Iím sorry but this email is quite long.
1-gallon Boiled Linseed Oil.
1-gallon oil based varnish from Lowes.
1-gallon of Mineral Spirits.
All in a new 5-gallon bucket from Lowes.
The only reason I didnít use 3 gallons of Danish oil is I couldnít afford them. I had on hand a gallon of Boiled Linseed oil and a gallon of Oil Based Varnish I used on a fence, and I went out and bought a gallon of Mineral Spirits.
I treated the knots with CA glue through out the whole process. After rough turning I applied a sanding sealer to the knot area and filled any voids in the knots with coffee grounds and CA glue. All along the finish turning process you have to keep a close I on the knots if they become loose or develop chips you need to stop turning and repeat the CA glue fortifying process. If you stay on top of the knots they come out smooth as glass like the rest of the bowl.
Iím turning a second one right now and I have found it easier and these are the changes I made. The first problem is with drying a NIP bowl with alcohol, the bowl is very dry and the grain likes to tear, makes for a lot of sanding. I think this is why most people that make this kind of bowl soak them in a soap solution to stabilize them first, they finish turn better.
1) First Rough turn to 1Ē to 3/4Ē thick
2) Stabilize with the alcohol process, this is to prevent green wood from cracking.
3) Fortify knots; donít forget to use sanding sealer around the area.
4) Second Rough turn to 1/4Ē to 5/16Ē thick.
5) Soak in oil solution over night and let dry the next day.
6) Fortify knots, all long process if needed.
7) Finish turn to 1/8Ē thick.
Steps 4 and 5 are the changes I made. The soaking in oil one time before the final finish turning really helped considerably with the tear out problem. The oil bulked up the wood fibers and lubricated the wood, it then cut beautifully.
THE OIL FINISH
This how I arrived at the translucent finish.
1) I would soak the piece over night in the oil solution.
2) Take it out to dry in the morning and let dry until I would get home from work at 5 PM.
3) Sand the piece and clean it, then soak again.
I did this for 6 days.
On the 7th day I buffed the bowl with the Beall buffing system.
There is nothing fast about making this type of bowl, take your time and have fun. Iím no kind of expert on NIP or woodturning for that matter, these are just the processes I went through. I hope this helps answer any questions. Here are two websites that will help http://www.ronkent.com/RKhome.html and http://home.earthlink.net/~puketarget/id1.html . If I can be of anymore help just ask.
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- Norlk Island Pine Process *PIC*