Turning Archive 2005

Chainsaw sharpening tips

>Purchase a stump vise, about $10, and a Husky sharpening guide to fit your chain, about $12, and at least 3 files and a good handle (I like the one Husky sells). The guide will help a lot but get someone to show you how to use it because the directions that come with it are worthless. When sharpening keep in mind that the part of the tooth that cuts is the corner and the top of the teeth. I see many people trying to sharpen and they put downward pressure on the file which sharpens the gullet instead of the cutting edge of the tooth. Make sure the tooth has a "C" shape when looking from the side. The most important part of the tooth is the corner or point. This starts the cut and the angled top edge then rolls the curl on out. Once you have in mind what you are trying to do it becomes very easy to sharpen a chain. Typically I make 2 strokes with the file while pushing down. This gives me the "C" shape that I want. Then I make 2 strokes while pushing the file straight back (pressure to the rear), followed by 2 strokes as I apply pressure upwards. These last 2 strokes are very important because they are the ones that actually sharpen the tooth. If a chain is very dull or has hit rock or something you must sharpen until you have a corner again. The corner must be sharp. Did I say make sure the corner is sharp? Remember, the corner and the top edge do the cutting, not the gullet.

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