Turning Archive 2007

Subject:
Hunter #1 vs 3/16 HSS cutter

john lucas
>I finally had time to work on a hollow vessel today and play with the #1 hunter tool. I switched back and forth between the Hunter tool and the HSS tool in both 1/2" and 3/4" bars. It is interesting. It seems to cut easier so less pressure is needed. In the 1/2" bar you can extend the bar a little deeper before it starts to chatter. Same was true for the 3/4" but it was less noticeable.

What's different. I have a habit of cutting in both directions when hollowing. I'll squeeze my hand and make a cut to the left then I'll cut back toward the middle. I do this in increments making steps so that I can feel them as I go into the vessel. With the Hunter tool I can still cut to the left and it's quite aggressive if you want. However when you try to cut back to the right it sort of bounces. Still I don't think this is a bad thing since it cuts more aggressively you still get done in the same amount of time.

I have my boring bars indexed with a flat area so when I am using a captured bar or when using the arm brace the tool is always oriented in the same way. With the Hunter tool I like to rotate the tool to different angles for different cuts. I can't do that with my arm brace or the captured bar. I might be able to do that with John Jordan's handle. (oh goody I get to buy another tool) I have also found that I can get rid of the center nub very easily with the Hunter tool if I rotate it to the right at about 35 or 45 degrees and then cut from the left to right. This cleans up the the nub and the bottom rather nicely. That would be impossible with my indexed bars.

So at first I would have called it a draw but I realized that I usually sharpen the HSS after each vessel. Sooner if it's a hard wood. The Hunter just keeps on cutting.

I should say that I drilled out the middle so I didn't have to work on the center nub on this vessel. I prefer to do that when ever I can. It saves time and eliminates the center nub problem.

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