Turning Archive 2007

Subject:
Warping on purpose

David Breth
>I like the way a warped bowl or form looks when it is pretty severely warped, and have experimented off and on to try to get some interesting shapes. I'm wondering if I can get some hints on the influence of a few of the items below:

1) Wood characteristics particularly susceptible to warping (open vs. tight grain, end vs. side grain, super- vs moderately-green, etc.)
2) Thickness walls/bottom? How about if you had a bowl wall that varied in thickness multiple times down its' length?
3) Forms that are more/less susceptible to warping?
4) Storage to maximize warp - brown bag, brown bag with shavings, totally exposed to air, doesn't matter?
5) Sanding. Any hints or comments? After it warps there isn't going to be any "Put it on the lathe and sand it". I've sanded several green pieces on the lathe to finish, as I would a dry bowl. When I pick it up to finish it off x months later, there's some fuzz typically, the result of the drying process, but not too terrible to sand off. No doubt I'm heating the wood when I do that, and possibly I'm slowing the drying process if I burnish the wood. Am I inhibiting/promoting warpage?
6) I've heard of people wraping stuff around the wood to encourage warping - what is typically used? How is it applied?

This post is a lot more involved than I meant for it to be. I've done some experimentation, but my results have been pretty ho hum (nothing looks worse than a slightly warped bowl. You either need incredible warp or none for a winner). I haven't found much on line except for turners' webpages where they say on their home site that sometimes they think warping looks nice so they do it sometimes. Hmmmm. Not the instruction I was seeking.

Thanks for any assistance !

David Breth

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